Eden Park in Auckland, NZ

After lunch we walked past a Pizza Hut and a Wendy's (did not go inside) and some charming homes with wrought iron decorations that reminded us of New Orleans -- a place we have each visited, but not with each other. The stroll probably took us about 20 minutes as we went at a leisurely tourist pace knowing we still had half an hour before we could enter Eden Park.

Eden Park, not to be confused with Mount Eden, is the cricket and rugby stadium in town. One of the draws of going to their Art in the Park was they were also offering free stadium tours. The tickets to the event were about $20NZ each (less than $15US). Its primary purpose was to promote New Zealand artists and encourage people to buy from them. It is a four day event, with the first day including an opening reception and the first chance to buy art. Indeed when we arrived as the doors opened on the second day to the general public (i.e., those not buying VIP tickets), much art already sported red stickers, but we could see more coming up the stairs to be displayed by more prolific artists. 

Lizards everywhere! This one is easily
ten feet long.

The artwork started on the concourse as we entered the stadium. This section had larger sculptures that could withstand the elements if it rained.

Looks like the Marlboro Man hanging
out at a cricket game

We moved upstairs to a giant conference / event space. It was easy to forget we were in the stadium as we couldn't see the stadium because art blocked the view. There was a bar and tables to hang out on in one area, three long rows of booths of artists in the middle, and an open space at the end leading to cash registers, rest rooms, and the exit. As the event just opened, it was very crowded. Some of the crowd were friends supporting friends, which was nice to see.

As I saw the artwork, I was immediately transported to Trenton's Art All Night, but with booths for each artist. There was a huge variety of artwork from photography, sculptures, glass work, Maori art, paintings, seashell art, recycled art, etc. The artists were on hand to talk about their pieces -- how they created them, what materials they used, which ones would fit in our carry on luggage, which ones they would carefully ship. 

Seriously, there were no hard sells, just people sharing what they love to do with a new audience. 

We knew we would have to walk through the space several times in order to appreciate all the art. Up and down through the aisles once was not going to cut it.

When we saw our first volunteer, we asked about stadium tours and were told they would happen on Saturday and Sunday because they didn't have any docents. I tried to say we came for the tours and the next day we would be in Wellington, but that didn't sound right. We just had to accept our disappointment and enjoy the art.

About an hour into looking at art in a crowded room where we didn't know anyone (the same event at home we would be distracted bumping into friends) we were about to leave when we heard an announcement that stadium tours were about to start on the concourse. Yay! We saw the volunteer who told us they wouldn't happen to let her know we heard, and she said she was looking for us to let us know. A win!

Eden Park is home to both cricket (which is a summer sport) and rugby (which is a winter sport). Prior to this trip we knew absolutely nothing about either sport. Eden Park tours have become a popular destination among foreigners knowing nothing about either sport, but this tour was filled with locals, some of whom educated us about the sports along the tour. We enjoyed it so much, the next morning we watched the opening of the World Cup in Rugby taking place on a 90 degree day in Paris. Unfortunately, the All Blacks (yes, that is the name of New Zealand's national rugby team) was trounced by the French team.

I learned some of the basic rules of rugby, including the ball must always be passed backwards. That makes such little sense to me. There are 15 on each side, and only an injury makes them swap out. Play is quick, and the clock keeps on going. There are very few breaks -- which is why (Don surmised) it doesn't catch on in US markets, there is no time for commercial breaks. 

Chris, our guide, is a retired gentleman who used to live within walking distance of the stadium. In 2016 they had one tour guide who gave the tour three times a week. Prior to COVID they offered the tour five times a week, they are still building up to that. When the Lions came to town, the 25,000 fans wanted a tour. About 80% of their tours are made up from overseas people. He once gave a tour with 54 people. This tour had about half that many people. It was originally about 50, but we were split in half with the other guide going in the other direction. 

I think this tour with mostly locals was a treat for Chris, our guide.

Our tour started from the beginning, the 1913 old rugby grandstand which is still behind Eden Park. They were moved in 1958 to Massey Park, and moved again in 1994. There are nine pitches, which means nothing to me. The field is maintained by seven grounds men, three indoor nets (two standard and their third with a machine). Again, this means little to me, but the locals were impressed. They still use these fields.

Our tour quickly moved to the behind-the-scenes parts: the home coaches box with 22 cameras so the coach can see every angle. He has a private bathroom so there is no chance to miss the action.

The locker room was set up for tomorrow's game, the women's world cup. When the women moved in, the bathrooms were cleaned up to include individual stalls and hot tubs. I suspect the men don't object.

Everything is nicely laid out

Spiffy bathrooms

Area for some physio

My eyes popped open as we were led onto the field.

I was transported back to the late 1990s when Don and I toured the Arizona Diamondbacks stadium and we were told not to touch the grass. Of course, I stooped down to touch it to see if it felt different from the grass growing effortlessly in my New Jersey backyard. It didn't. I was still chastised. 

The stadium holds 46,000 people for rugby. They had to add another 14,000 seats because they needed 60,000 seats in order to hold world event. He explained how those seats appear for rugby, but disappear for cricket which needs more space. Cricket is played on on a rounded court, rugby on a rectangular one (feel free to correct me if any of this is wrong). It seems this time of year the seasons overlap as cricket season is starting and rugby season is in its finals. They can play cricket on Friday, have a concert on Saturday, and play rugby the following Saturday.

Until 2003, the field used to get flooded. It was ripped apart and new grass was put in. The grass is grown in south Auckland, then rooted through a mesh base (see why I kept having flashbacks to the baseball stadium tour). In 2020, the old field was sold in squares and ended up in people's backyards. After much work, the field is now 5% artificial and the rest real. There are 95 sprinklers. They add 2,000 field seats for rugby matches (which is the dirt area you see in the picture).

After standing on the field, the rest of the tour could not compare. It continued inside past the industrial kitchen that can bake 3,000 pies at a time.

We went in a large room you can rent out -- just one of their fundraising approaches. Others included renting "igloos" on the concourse during the game, ziplining, and an outdoor space that would be perfect for a gala. We saw the VIP rooms, which are rented for $75,000NZ a year, but does not include access during special events including championship games and concerts. Huh? It does include parking. One businessman uses his space as his Auckland office so he doesn't have to rent other space. Must seem odd when the park is empty.

The VIP lounge

View from the VIP lounge

An event space for rent

One of the igloos for rent

We went back to Art in the Park, which was much, much quieter. We were able to enjoy the art and talk to some of the artists. Jessica Gurnsey, an award winning portrait artist, painted pictures of people so realistic we knew if we passed them on the street we would recognize them. She gave me a card with a picture of street buskers on Cuba Street in Wellington, NZ I kept in my purse during the next leg of our trip. Unfortunately, we did not see them, but it would have been really cool if we did!

One area featured Maori art, with artists who learned the indigenous techniques from Te Puia, where we had been just the day before. While I admire their talents, I don't want to acquire more things, only stories and connections with people.

METcALfe is run by two sisters who cut up metal drums to make floral art. Their art ranges from the 8 foot tall flower to smaller ones that would have fit in our suitcase. Their card says "two colourful creatives repurposing materials to create colourful, joyful artworks and products."

Outside the stadium there were permanent sculptures. Some depicting Maori, other honoring New Zealand athletes, complete with plaques describing the moment captured in bronze.

Great art or famous athletes
outside the stadium

Three hours after entering Art in the Park the first time we were ready to go. This time we opted to take mass transit. Right after purchasing the ticket from a kiosk that said we had to use it within two hours we noticed a cute main street filled with restaurants. We opted for the Happy Hour burger special (only $8 NZ, $5.50 US) with the purchase of a drink. We weren't driving, so it wasn't a hard sell. Don had a local beer, I had a New Zealand white wine.

After dinner we were treated to a glorious sunset. The train ride was a little slow because earlier that night there was a "trespasser" on one of the lines, which tied up the whole system. We were ready to relax.

We noted it did not seem like a big train line for the large geographic space. They are working to expand the system, as evidenced by the construction site in front of our hotel on Victoria Street in the CBD (Central Business District). A return trip in a few years should include a much larger subway system.

Don and I walked around the waterfront for one last visit talking about all we saw since we arrived only four days earlier, and thinking ahead to our next adventures. The first (of six/seven) legs was coming to an end.

Along our walk we saw the drawbridge rise to let in a sailboat with a tall mast and a tourist boat. What in daily life could be frustrating, on this nice evening it felt charming.

We stopped in a brightly lit Super Drug Store so Don could get a decongestant. He caught a cold with the rain on the first night of vacation and it didn't go away until he was home three weeks later. While there we got a souvenir -- free COVID tests courtesy of the NZ government. The warehouse style store also had baby items, and hair supplies, but the focus seemed to be on different medications. It was open until 9 pm, later than most other places in either New Zealand or Australia. 

By 7 pm it felt like midnight. We were back in our room by 8, and asleep by 9. That's what happens when the sun sets at 6 pm. I suspect in the summer it feels different.