Free Walking Tour of The Rocks (Sydney)

Researching what to do in Sydney touring The Rocks kept coming up as a must-do. I was pleased to find I'm Free offered an evening tour starting at 6 pm in the courtyard in front of Cadmans Cottage.

Cadmans Cottage was built in 1816, making it one of only a few buildings from Sydney's first 30 years as a colony. It has been a water transport headquarters, a sailors' home, and a water police station. It was moved 100 meters away from the water when Circular Quay was built. In 1972 it became a designated historic site. Currently closed for tours, they plan to reopen later this year.

Scott led our group of 28 people. I'm Free started offering tours in 2009 after the company's founder went on similar tours in Europe. Scott has been a guide with them since 2019.

The history lesson began.

In 1788 the first fleet of British convicts arrived. The other side of the cove had lush, rich land, include the Rushcutters Bay where I was staying. This side had harsh rocks (hence its name). The officers took the nice said to live in, and let the convicts sort it out for themselves on the harsh side. Prisoners were sent here for sentences of seven years, fourteen years, or life. They had to pay for their return passage at the end of their sentence.

In 1816, John Cadman was sentenced to life in Australia for stealing a horse ("grand theft equine"). The severity of your sentence was in the hands of the judge trying your case. His life turned out okay. He became the superintendent of boats owned by the government, and was given this waterfront property. In 1821 he was given a pardon and could have returned home, but would have had to pay for his return voyage. He married Elizabeth Moron, she was serving a seven year sentence for stealing 11 dessert knives. At that time there were four men to every woman. 

John and Elizabeth lived together until 1845, and died three years later at the age of 70 or 90, who knows? In 1860 Elizabeth Morton is a landowner and believes she should have the right to vote. She became the first woman in Australia to have her vote be counted.

We walk over to George Street.

Scott shared with us stories of famous early crimes, and Sydney's oldest pubs.

We learned about the 1828 bank robbery of $14,000 at the Bank of Australia, which at the time was in a man's house. (Today's value is $22 million AUS). It was the biggest bank robbery in their history. The hunt went on for two and a half years. Remember, there were hardly any people living here at the time, and no place for them to go. Finally someone tells his fellow convict friends. The person was caught and sent to Norfolk Island (located in the Pacific Ocean between Australia and New Zealand) to serve his sentence.

Not sure if this is a picture of the pub,
or just a picture of a scene from the tour

We stopped in front the first of the three pubs on the tour. Built in 1828, this is the third oldest pub, but when it was rebuilt in 1922 it retained its license the longest.

We learned about Mary Wade. At 10 or 11 years old she became the youngest female convict for stealing a dress on a washing line with the intent of reselling it. She was sentenced to death, but that was changed to life in Australia when King George III commuted women's services from death to life.

The Lady Juliana, a ship of female convicts, arrived in September 1790 to improve men's morale, and to keep them from attacking the Aboriginal women. It was considered a floating brothel. No one died on it, but a number of babies were born. One of their passengers was Mary Wade whose family has lived in Australia for five generations and is considered the founding mother of Australia, and a direct of descendent of many Australians.

We passed Susannah Place, another historic site. Built in 1844 by Irish immigrants, this set of four row homes was lived in until 2006 by over a 100 different families. A couple of days later I tried to go on a tour, but they were full. It is on my list for a future visit. They only take groups of eight people on tours Thursdays through Sundays. It was nearly demolished in the early 1900s when much of the area was seized by the government while they were conducting "hygiene checks" during the era of the Bubonic Plague in an effort to take over prized land near the water. It was saved because they had a toilet in the backyard. The property has not changed much since it was built, though some modernization has taken place. It came under thread of demolition again in the 1970s, but a family still living in one of the homes (then a Council House) protected it.

We walked up to Gallows Hill, the February 1780 site of Sydney's first hanging. Only a month after the convicts arrived, Thomas stole some food and was made an example of in front of the other convicts. Rather than cutting down on crime, public executions became a source of entertainment. They were then moved down the hill to be more private, but then people positioned themselves on the hill so they could get a good view.

We heard about the Thomas Warne's murder by his house servant, Jean Videll.  Jean's hanging was described as "the best one we have had in ages." What a way to go! If you want to read more ghost stories, click HERE read more than I can decipher from my notes.  

We passed The Big Dig (unlike Boston's Big Dig, this one is an archaeological site). Found in 1994 under a former warehouse, from the mid-1800s-early 1900s, this was where George Legg and another convict lived and conducted their illegal activities. It is a fascinating look into the history from pre-Colonization through to modern times.

The tour continued with fun stories about early British convicts.

We went past the Australian Hotel, which has had its liquor license since 1824. Unfortunately, the let it lapse during the pandemic. Unfortunately we did not stop inside of any of the taverns on this tour.

Scott led us to Observatory Hill, a quiet place to take some stunning pictures of the other side of the Sydney Harbor. Though I was enjoying the stories, I would have been happy if our tour ended here.

We continued to Lord Nelson's pub, the third option for the unofficial award of being the oldest pub in Sydney. It was a private residence in 1836, and opened as a pub/hotel in 1842. Scott recommends their curry chicken.

Pub #1: Opened in 1828, but rebuilt in 1922.

Pub #2: Liquor license since 1824, but let it lapse during the pandemic's shut down.

Pub #3: Opened as a pub in 1842.

Which do you consider to be the oldest pub in Sydney? 

Scott said he is surprised how much the vote varies from week to week.

The Plague hit Sydney at Millers Point in 1900, hitting the working class neighborhoods the hardest.  Much gentrification has taken place in this area that used to be known for Social Housing. Now it is mostly AirBNBs and not residential.

After hearing about Mary Reibey who went from being a convict to becoming the wealthiest woman in Australia. She founded a charity to end slavery and implemented changes in policy. Her face is on the $20 note.

In daytime

We ended the tour beneath the Sydney Harbour Bridge at Dawes Point (called Tar-Ra by the Aboriginal). A few days later I went here and had a FaceTime conversation with Don so he could see some of Sydney.

I walked back to my AirBNB. With the Botanical Garden closed, it took closer to 45 minutes with no viable mass transit options. I stopped for Pad Thai dinner at a Thai restaurant I returned to later in the trip because it was that delicious. There was a group of co-workers enjoying themselves which made the ambiance feel festive. The only odd thing about the restaurant was in order to use the restroom I had to go outside, enter through the garage behind it, and through a small, dark hallway. The type of passage was not unique in our experiences dining in cheaper places in New Zealand and Australia, but it continued to stand out as a difference between here and there. It was the type of situation that would never pass health codes since it was not at all ADA compliant, but still managed to work.

Back in the room I enjoyed watching Netflix and savoring the quiet. I waited up to hear that Don landed safely, and that Bart picked him up at the train station. Hard to believe all the sightseeing I did in the time it took Don to fly home. In a few days, he would have the same situation as I returned to the States.