Riding the Rails

My friend Marlene recently reached out to me with a couple of big hints saying she was moving and the new space has an extra bedroom for guests. I took her up on her hint and booked an Amtrak ticket to help her out. Marlene and I met nearly 40 years ago when we were both Rotary exchange students. She was in college and I was a new high school graduate. She is the big sister I never had.

Like many I have a romantic view of train travel. Taking the train gives you the luxury of simply being. The transit hassles are left to the conductor. I could read, sleep, eat, or simply gaze out the window. 

The reality was pretty similar to that. I was lucky enough to have no one next to me for most of the trip in both directions. The ride did start with someone next to me, but I was so tired and slept for those 2.5 hours. As I said good-bye to her I was able to stretch out, as was everyone else who wanted to on the train.

Let me back up. The ride started in Trenton at 5:45 am. Ouch! Don dropped me off and waited until the train left. The ride is only an hour from there to New York's Penn Station where I had to wait 90 minutes for the train to Montreal.

What was not included in the ticket information was that we would have to go to an unmarked kiosk in a random hallway in order to have our passports verified and our paper tickets stamped. 

There is a lot in that sentence that bears unpacking. First, you need a paper ticket. They do not stamp your phone, which many people use as their ticket. Second, you need to hear the announcement telling people what to do. Third, you need to find the correct line (I asked three people before finding the secret line). 

After being approved, we were to stand in a line. There was still an hour to go before our train was to board. We left a cozy waiting room with cushioned seats to stand in a hallway.

This was the toughest part of the long day.

We were ushered to the train where we were told to stay in the rear two cars. I
didn't know if they were the only cars heading to Montreal, or because it made things easier for the conductor, but we obeyed. I scored a window seat. I thought it was facing forward because I saw a sign that said I was facing the direction of Boston and not Washington, DC. My caffeine hadn't kicked in enough to realize facing the rear of the train meant I would spend the next twelve hours traveling backwards. Oh well, it was good for sleeping. I wished the seats flipped like the old NJ Transit seats do, but the more modern seats recline and have seat pockets and tray tables on the backs of the seats in front of them. Trade offs.  

Traveling solo I looked into upgrading to business class only to learn business
class was only an option from Trenton to New York, a ride of barely an hour. Turns out every seat on the New York to Montreal stretch is coach. I did pay an extra $5 each way to ensure I had a window or an aisle seat only to learn all of the seats are windows or aisles. The $5 also allowed me to change or my ticket up to an hour before the trip. As I was meeting a friend and that either of our plans could change, I felt that was a good investment on my $100 ticket.

Don is taking Amtrak next month to get to the start of a long bike ride. I sent him a picture of the limited bike rack. I can see why they say there are only six slots. At least they are with the passengers and not hidden away. People do use the space for large suitcases, which are also kept with passengers.

Each car has two bathrooms, one is handicap accessible. They were fine at the start of the ride, but by the end they were getting rancid. I warned Don not to sit near them, even though those are the spaces closest to where he is hanging his bicycle.

The train was six cars long with the engine. There were four cars of coach seats with a dining car in the middle. The food was actually decent and cheap, but limited. I got a large cheeseburger for $8. No sales tax. If you care about what you eat, I recommend bringing food. I brought a sandwich, drink, and snacks, but twelve hours is a long time.

People hung out in the dining car. Some brought their laptops and got comfortable all by themselves in a four seater. Others brought playing cards and had three friends laughing and playing cards. The dining car served drinks. Throughout the ride I was surprised just how chill everyone was. No one was anxious. Many slept most of the ride, even though it took place mostly during daylight hours.

When we arrived in Albany, NY 2.5 hours into the ride we were told we could get out and stretch for 45 minutes. They would announce when it was time to get back in the train. At Plattsburgh, NY we were told we were running early and could get out for 20 minutes. I was surprised how much I enjoyed being able to get out of the train. It felt safe to leave my bag at my seat and see the unfiltered sun. Unfortunately the ride home did not allow this luxury. We only paused in Albany for about 20 minutes, during which time they refueled and moved the train.

I was surprised to learn at times the train runs on a single track, which meant we had to wait for the other train to pass before we could jump on the single track. On the ride up that happened like clockwork, but on the ride home we had a 25-minute wait for the other train. This is why we didn't have a chance to get out and stretch our legs in Albany.

In Plattsburgh I saw my first sign in both French and English. Getting close! I've often said if I lived in that area I would keep my passport (now NEXUS card) in my glove compartment just in case.

I wondered how the border crossing would be handled. Ashley said when she and Anna took the bus home from Montreal everyone had to get off of the bus and individually (or family unit) go through customs and immigration. When driving, each car is handled one at a time as a group. 

As we neared the border Amtrak announced the crossing will take as long as it takes. They have no control over it. Do not ask them any questions. We can move around our car and use our bathroom, but we should stay in our car in order to make it easier for border patrol. Meanwhile, it is what it is.

The train had customs and immigration patrol enter and interview each cluster of people. I could hear the interviews around me. The people around me could hear my interview. On our trip up, the stop was over two hours, which the conductor later said was on the long side. The trip back it was only 45 minutes.

I learned everyone sounds nervous when grilled. I believe my NEXUS card granted me the simplest of interviews. I don't want to give away any international secrets, but as with most of life, greeting people politely, using eye contact and a smile work wonders.

Interesting to note on the way into Canada everyone had to fill out a customs form, even Canadians. The trip back we did not.  

The extra time meant we arrived an hour later than planned. Marlene and her honey met me at the train station with a big hug. So worth it!

I used my downtime to sleep. I deleted excessive emails, did some crossword puzzles, read a couple of books, and gazed out the window. I arrived very relaxed.

One parent encouraged their 10-year old to conduct a survey with the passengers. He promised us a pie chart at the end, but never came through. I was fortunate in that I was on the train with him both on the way up and the way back. The way up was only two questions: Is a hot dog a sandwich? Can you give yourself a high five? Four days later, the questionnaire grew to six questions and his own debate pro and con, which he insisted on repeating to each person even if they were sitting in the same row. New questions included is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable? Is a fajita a taco? And, can water be wet? I don't remember the other questions. He did start with "Do you mind if I ask you a couple of question?" Most people were thrilled to have a tiny distraction and obliged.

I know I could have made the drive to Montreal in less than seven hours. I also know my time at the border with my NEXUS card would have been a fraction of that time. The benefit of a quicker trip would have come with the downsides of driving and finding parking (though she has a space in her new apartment I could use for parking). 

I'm wishing I spent a little more time with my friend. Our trips together are always too short, but always meaningful. I encountered a family who took the train up on Monday, and the one back on Wednesday. That was even crazier than my Sunday to Wednesday trip.

Views heading north:

Trip heading south:

On the way home I had an hour to stretch my legs at New York Penn Station. It was after 11 pm. I was afraid if I sat down I would fall sound asleep. Instead, I took some pictures.