Easter Morning -- Explosion of the Cart

I learned about Florence's Explosion of the Cart (Scoppio del Carro) tradition when I made our AirBNB reservation. The tradition began in 1622 -- 351 years ago. The elaborate cart is two to three stories tall and paraded through the streets of Florence with much pageantry, pulled by a pair of oxen that are dressed up for the occasion. It is loaded with fireworks. It is quite a sight.

Earlier in the week I asked one of our tour guides for advice as to what time to arrive for a good spot in order to see the 11 AM explosion. Fabriozzio said "early." When I pressed him on "early," he said he went during a COVID year, but thought 7:45 AM would be a good time to arrive. 

I set my alarm for 7 AM. I wasn't there by 7:45, but I was still able to get a front row spot and see everything. 

I googled to learn more about the tradition. VisitFlorence.com said "this tradition finds its origins in events that are partly historic and partly legendary. A young Florentine named Pazzino, a member of the noble Pazzi family, apparently took part in the First Crusade in the Holy Land in 1099, where he gave ample proof of his courage (he was the first to scale the walls of Jerusalem and raise the Christian banner). When he came home, he brought back three flints from the Holy Sepulchre that he received for his act of courage. This reliquary, today preserved in the Church of SS Apostoli, lies behind the Florentine celebration for the Resurrection of Christ."

I arrived a little after 8 AM. I saw a barricade blocking off the area between the Baptistry and the Cathedral. Figuring I could see the front door of the cathedral, I planted myself there for as long as it would take. I knew the actual explosion would take place at 11 AM, but since I had a front row spot, I was not moving. Don swears he arrived not long after I sent him the picture, but he thought I was on the other side. By the time I realized I wasn't there, it was too late to fight the crowd and join me. Through the magic of the GPS, Ashley met up with him.

By 8:45 the drums started beating and the pomp and circumstance began. It reminded me of being at Disney with entertainment to keep me amused before the real entertainment began at 11. I stood between a mother and daughter from Wales, and a family from Brooklyn. I won't pretend to understand the significance of the people walking around in historic attire. Most of the reenactors were men. There were a few women dressed up as royalty. My favorites were the flag squads performing routines. HERE is a sample.

Some pictures of the pre-pageantry:

According to VisitFlorence.com "around 10 AM a priest rubs Pazzino's three flints together until they spark and light the Easter candle; this, in turn, is used to light some coals which are placed in a container on the Cart and procession delivers the Holy Fire to the Archbishop of Florence before the Duomo. The cart is accompanied by drummers, flag throwers, and figures dressed in historical costumes, as well as city officials and clerical representatives."

Meanwhile on Don's side:

Back to my side. At 9:30 AM Souvenir programs were handed out, the same time Don saw the cart making its way down the street.. Then they started distributing hard boiled eggs and olive branches. For some reason, I felt I needed these items. I did end up eating the egg as a snack.

The cart arrived and was put into place. The fire department showed up. Fortunately, they decided to move the truck so it was not blocking anyone's view -- I did wonder when it arrived.

At 10:15 AM the farmer reenactors moved and effectively blocked our view of lowest part of the cart. Guess that is the perk of being a performer. 

At 10:25 AM an outdoor church service started to take place with what sounded like prayers and singing. Fifteen minutes later priests and the archbishop came out to spread holy water. They visited Don's side first, but then came around to our side. "Peasant girls" handed out hard boiled eggs and olive tree branches. 

Through the magic of Google, learned he is the
Mayor of Florence, Dario Nardello

Guiseppe Betori, Archbishop of Florence

Thankfully the truck moved!

I later learned a friend's nephew is with the Florence
police department. I wonder if I saw him that day.

Finally it is time for the explosion! "Gloria" was sung inside the church. The Archbishop uses the fire to light a dove-shaped rocket (called the "Colombina," symbolizing the Holy Spirit), which makes it fly down a wire to the outside of the church and collide with the Cart. This sets off a 10 minute firework display that is most impressive, and only visible to those with a view of the front door of the cathedral. That's right, there are no jumbotrons projecting what is happening. Don and Ashley on the other side of the Baptistry could only see smoke. 

My VIDEO of the display is worth watching.

Here are a few stills I managed to capture while also recording the video. I'm impressed by my ability to do both at the same time.

By the time the last firework exploded, the crowds were starting to disperse. I did see the "dove" being returned to safety, but was not fast enough to snap a picture. I fought my way through the crowds to meet in front of what Ashley told us was the coffee shop she likes to frequent. Meanwhile, she and Don were watching the cart and the oxen leave.

Italy News proclaimed it a "perfect flight of the dove." That means good harvest this year, and good luck to the city and its citizens. I hope that good luck extends to all who witnessed it. We can all use good luck.

Happy Easter! He is Risen!

A few more thoughts before I break to the next blog post.

By the time we made it back to our apartment it was afternoon in Florence, but early morning in Lawrenceville, NJ. Our home church was livestreaming the sunrise service so we were able to participate from afar. Between this and hearing the service in Italian, I feel as if we made it to Easter morning worship.

Don picked up some chocolate croissants for breakfast and we dined on our balcony. These few hours were my favorite time in Florence. It was also a rare time it felt warm.

Ashley took a shower because the hot water in her apartment was not working -- again. I'm glad we could help her.