Day 5: Peru, Urubamba: Carnavale

On Friday night as our group of seven crossed the street between Urubamba's Plaza des Armes and the Cathedral we saw groups rehearsing something. Ruth, the lone person in our group who spoke more than basic Spanish, asked someone what was up. She was led to believe they were practicing for a festival that would take place in May. We jokingly said we should return then.

Fast forward to Sunday morning. Don and I had an 11 am pick up. Besides @Go.with.Greg, the other ten were picked up at 7 am for an optional driving tour of sites. When I saw the description as we were booking on Black Friday it sounded like places to purchase souvenirs with a couple of historic sites tossed in:

Discover the millinery history and vibrant culture of the Sacred Valley. Begin in Chinchero, visiting the Parwa Cultural Center to learn about traditional textiles and their symbolism. Observe the artisans in action, from the extraction of natural dyes to the weaving techniques passed down through the generations. Explore the archaeological complex of Chinchero, an ancient agricultural and livestock center of the Tahuantinsuya, and admire the Nuestra Senora de Monserrat church, an example of the fusion between Andean and Spanish cultures. Then, visit Moray, a fascinating archaeological site with concentric terraces that functioned as an Incan agricultural laboratory. Enjoy a local lunch before heading to Ollantaytambo, an ancient military, religious and agricultural center. Tour its impressive stone fortress and main temple while enjoying unparalleled views of the town, which still retains its original Incan urban design. Stroll through its stone streets, visit the market, and immerse yourself in the authentic spirit of the Andes.

As I study the list and type it out, maybe we did miss out. I heard the lunch was fantastic. Moray looked beautiful in the pictures. On the other hand, it sounded like an early and long day in a bus on twisty windy roads on a path that crisscrossed past the same vista over and over and over and over again.

Instead, Don and I went into Urubamba. We found out the festival was actually taking place that day instead of in May (maybe there is another one in May?). It was the last day of Carnival. This confused me because Ash Wednesday took place a few days earlier. 

Unlike the scantily clad parade participants in cities such as Rio and in Portugal, the Urubambians (I suspect I made up that word) dress in conservative outfits that evoke their traditional costumes. We saw individuals and small groups walking dressed in white tops and colorful bottoms, often wearing large hats and woven ponchos. Many participants were covered in plastic (especially their hats), which we thought erroneously was because of the forecast rain.

We wove through Urubamba watching people gather. Sometimes they clustered around a packed lunch of rice, beans, and meat. I pictured the matriarch making lunch for her extended family.

Mindful of the time, we made our way back to Plaza des Armes where we saw people not in costumes gathered, with children gleefully running around, and a reviewing stand. 

Then we heard a drumbeat, so we headed in the direction of our hotel. This is one of those times I wish we had been completely on our own schedule. We would have stayed in Urubamba following the crowds and enjoying the revelry.

We found the grand procession. Not quite a parade, more like large groups walking together towards the reviewing stands where they would perform. Though there were a few others like us watching the procession, the vast majority of viewers were in the Plaze des Armes. Kids were having fun tossing foam at us -- I got squirted really well. Don stayed on the side and was safe. When I saw the spray cans I assumed silly string -- after all, the containers had different color tops. I was glad it was only a foam thinner than shaving cream, which dissipated fairly quickly.

I bought a pair of earrings from an Argentinian woman who set up a table. The geometric shapes with local stones felt more genuine than the tchotchkes I saw everywhere else. The 20 soles worked out to less than seven US dollars.

Random pictures from our wanderings before heading back to the resort for our 90 minute drive to Cusco.