Cuba 2: Friday morning (architecture lecture)

Let the organized fun begin!

The pro and the con to a Road Scholar trip are the lectures they organize. On the positive side, it is great learning about a new culture. On the negative side, I was itching to get out and see the places in person!

Friday morning's lecture was about Cuba's architecture by Professor Humberto Ramirez. According to the Road Scholar website, his biography is:

Humberto R. Ramirez Salazar is an architect and professor of the history of architecture and design at the School of Architecture, ISPJAE, Havana. He has been secretary of the International Council of Monuments and Sites, UNESCO NGO; president of Havana Architect Society; and a member of the National Heritage Commission. Some of his most important works as an architect and designer are the School of Architecture in Alamar, Agriculture and Animals National Research Center, Plaza Hotel Refurbishing Project, and Plaza Carlos III Shopping Center.

In 1982 UNESCO declared Old Havana a World Heritage site, a status rarely given to a city. Quito, Ecuador is another city with that designation.

On October 27, 1492 Christopher Columbus "discovered" Cuba. During a different lecture, the professor declared he "discovered" New York City in 1978 when he traveled to the United States.

Back to the talk. Columbus fell in love with the beauty of Cuba and named it Jaine (not sure of the spelling). Professor Ramirez said Trinidad is stunted in how it looked in the 19th century. I suspect, similar to how Havana is stuck in 1959, Trinidad is both beautiful and haunting.

People settled here because of the bay's narrow entrance gave them protection and safety from hurricanes. They built the most important shipyard for the Spanish empire. Before long the harbor became crowded with pirates and the royal fleet.

From 1558-1577 the first fort was built as the first Renaissance-style castle in America. That was followed by El Morro and La Punta, two other castles that form a triangle. I suspect castle isn't the right word. Tower is probably the right one.  The three form the symbol of Cuba. Then came the walls of Havana. They still had a problem with pirates.

In 1863 the walls came down to expand the city.

In the 18th century the ground floor of homes were warehouses (I think also shops and other businesses). Families lived on the second and third floors. 

Also in the 18th century the British occupied Cuba and the Spanish occupied (what is now) Florida. After a 44-day battle the countries decided to switch territories.

Havana has four great squares, which we will see on the trip.

1) Army Square (also referred to as Parade Square): the foundation of the city. in the 17th century trees were planted here. In the 19th century there was a temple. It is the home to the Royal Force Castle. The baroque-style castle shows the richness of the area. The palace has a courtyard.

2) San Francisco Square: in 1735 the Franciscan monks started to build a Baroque-style convent in this area. It is next to the customs house. It's bell tower was the highest building in Havana. Before it was completed, the Franciscan monks were kicked out of Cuba. In the late 19th century it was converted into a warehouse. Today it is a cultural center and concert hall. Martha and I saw a concert there eight years ago. It is also known as "pigeon square."

3) Old Market Square: today this colorful square is home to coffee shops and
hotels. Every house has its own design. The oldest house in the square has the most beautiful stained glass.

4) Cathedral Square: near Market Square. Famous for the blue and white glass and the Baroque-style cathedral.

The four-story palace is under renovation. It has a white and blue courtyard. All courtyards in Havana are extraordinary and beautiful. When we were walking, Lian guided us inside one and it was stunning!

The mezzanine was used for their slaves. The ceilings were lower.

Professor Ramirez encouraged us to look at the ironworks around the city. They remind you of New Orleans.

The Prada is always full of activity. It is a wide street with a park in the center. In the 20th century it became a commercial center flanked by buildings with miles of colonnades. The colonnades are considered public spaces (meaning they cannot be converted into extra rooms or made private). They are shaded walkway that also protects pedestrians from the rain. Over the years, the buildings alongside it were built in a variety of styles.

In the 1930s, Havana was a noisy, crowded city. The capital building was constructed in 1930. It is one meter taller than the one it is modeled after. It was renovated for the 500th anniversary of Cuba (1992?). The building is open to the public. (However, I think he meant to say it is open during business hours because when we tried to get in on Saturday at 5 we couldn't. Next time.) 

The waterfront is important. At six miles, it is the longest (paved?) coastline. It is always full of people. 

The university is nearly 300 years old. It was founded by the Domicans. 

The National Hotel was built in 1930. Back in its heyday American mobsters went their to be trained. It is still a stunning building evoked a bygone era.

The Bacardi Building and Santa Dominigo are examples of the Art Deco style that can still be seen around Havana.

The city is in the process of building a 43-story hotel. In the professor's opinion, 36 stories is enough. Our hotel at 26-stories was one of the tallest we saw.

In the 1950s the city grew and doubled in size. The famous Tropicana was built. There were a lot of casinos. It was a thriving place.

Then the 1959 revolution took place. All architectural progress changed. It seemed to halt. In the 1990s some hotels were built. Hospitals and schools were also built. 

In 1991 the largest exposition in Latin America took place the Pan American
Games. Driving around we could see remnants of stadiums. They left behind the villages that were built. These have been turned into much needed housing.

Professor Ramirez concluded, "There are many 'shadows' in the city. It is hard to maintain the city."

Havana is a unique city. It is one of only seven wonder cities in the world (out of 1,200 cities in the world).