Trip Update #8: Sydney

Fingers crossed this is my last airport update. I say this because my 10:25 am flight  to Vancouver is now scheduled to leave at 11:15 am, meaning instead of nearly two hours to make my connecting flight to Newark, I have less than an hour to get off a crowded airplane, go through customs, and hop on my next flight. If you are reading this while I am flying, wish me luck!

Almost a week ago Don and I parted ways. He went home and back to work. I went to Sydney.

I planned this leg of the trip to be more chill. After three weeks of traveling, I yearned to hole up in my PJs and watch Netflix. I did do a lot of that. I also did a lot of walking -- often 30,000 steps and over 30 flights of stairs. My toes are sore.

I took the train from the airport to Central Station. I was feeling restless, so I walked from there to the AirBNB. Yes, GPS told me it was a 30 minute walk. It failed to mention it was a hilly 30 minute walk. Once again, I was dressed like Joey wearing ALL of Chandler's clothes. Once I arrived at the apartment I was surprised to see it is on what American's refer to as the third floor, and there was no elevator. 

Decorated in an art deco style, the apartment was just as lovely as pictured. It was also very quiet. Located in the Rushcutters Bay section of Sydney, it is on the tourist map by about a block, but worlds away from the traffic and noise we faced in other hotels. It also meant the metro was a five minute walk away and I didn't even see a bus until I was walking to the metro this morning.

I went on two free walking tours and one paid one. My first walking tour was of The Rocks, where Sydney was first settled in 1844 by Britain's penal system. The next day I paid to tour the Sydney Opera House. The last tour was a 3-hour general tour of Sydney by I'm Free Walking Tours -- the same company that we used in Melbourne.

These tours gave me an appreciation for Sydney's history.

There are so many announcements happening at the airport it is hard to concentrate. The eight of you reading my posts, I am apologizing in advance for disjointed thoughts and mistakes. I will flesh out the thoughts after I get home.

I walked across the Sydney Bridge to Luna Park. Many people told me I had to pay $225 to go up to the top for the full experience. I disagreed. I could have paid a fraction of that to climb up to the top of the bridge, and I didn't even do that. Walking across the bridge gave me lovely view and a nice stretch of the legs for free.

Unlike Luna Park in Melbourne, this one allows you to walk the grounds for free, but they charge a flat rate for rides. The only ride I was mildly curious about was the fun house since it is the world's oldest fun house, but not enough to buy an all I can ride pass. They used to have a wooden coaster, but took it out because *gasp* people screamed on the coaster and the neighbors were upset by the noise.

I took the ferry to Manly Beach. This day turned out to be one of my highlights. It was good to escape the City. After consulting with the tourist office, I went to the Sailing Club for a Parmi (the Parmesan Chicken sandwich is called Parma in Brisbane). It was lovely dining on the water. I put my feet in the Pacific Ocean and hiked to the top for a nice view. The guide told me to look out for whales, but I did not see any. I went back early to clean up to see "Miss Saigon" at the Sydney Opera House. Unfortunately, I remembered wrong and my ticket was for the next night. Better that than the day before. I walked around Sydney. All around Sydney.

The next day I took mass transit to Bondi Beach. Everything I read suggested walking from Bondi Beach to Cooggee Beach. I was a little confused about how long that should take. I read somewhere to allow 3.5 hours and I had 5 hours before I needed to get ready for seeing "Miss Saigon." Each beach along the hilly windy path was somehow unique. Some better for snorkeling or surfing or for small children or for teens or included a swimming pool. I'll share pictures and more detailed notes later. I dipped my toes in the water at Bondi and another beach along the way. When I made it to my final beach with a couple of hours to spare, I dropped my bag on the beach and went in the water. As a Jersey Girl, leaving my bag unattended is a huge leap of faith. Enough others were doing it, I took the chance. It was fine.

Me, on the other hand, wow! The water temperature was in the 60s and felt nice. I was knocked over by a couple of big waves before I got too far in. Heeding the "rough waters" warning, I quit while I was soaked but still safe. While drying off I noticed a text from Don. At least he was checking up on me. Not much he could do from 10,000 miles away.

"Miss Saigon" was great. Abigail Adriano, who played Kim, was phenomenal, unfortunately something must have happened and after an extra long intermission, we were told her understudy was taking over for the second half. She was a great Kim, but she played the role differently. Abigail is a native of Sydney. This was her first professional lead. Keep an eye out. If you hear of her performing go see the show! If this was her on less than 100%, the I'd love so see her at full strength.

On my final day I did a lot more walking. A highlight was walking around The Rocks Markets that takes place every weekend. I had dumplings for lunch, and gelato for dessert. Don and I FaceTimed and I was able to show him the Harbor Bridge and the Sydney Opera House, as well as catch up. Technology is pretty amazing.

I took one last walk across the Bridge and into Luna Park. I started about sunset. Within 30 minutes it was very dark outside.

Lots more thoughts, but the plane is starting to board.

Last Day in Sydney

This was my last full day in Sydney. It was bittersweet. Just as Don felt a week earlier, I was ready to go home. My feet hurt from walking 30,000 steps (15 miles) a day, and climbing dozens of flights of stairs. I was even getting tired of figuring out what and where to eat each night. 

As it was Saturday, I wanted to visit the famous The Rocks Markets. The street market winds through the entire neighborhood. Like stalls seemed to be near each -- such as all the food was at one end, craft items, jewelry, and other arts together. 

Some of the stalls

Wandering through the stalls

And more stalls

This section was four wide, and too crowded to enjoy

Continuing with my trend of trying new foods,
I had dumplings for lunch

Lunch!

Chips on a stick was creative

While eating ice cream,
Don texted so we FaceTimed from
under the Harbour Bridge with views
of the Opera House and Luna Park

Chocolate and ricotta gelato --
the best I had Down Under

A small portion of her charms

I bought these dragon charms
for Don to turn into earrings

I was near Susannah Place, so I thought I would try my luck and talk my way into the last tour of the day. I had a lovely conversation with Jeff the docent. I could tell he wanted to help me, but the 4 pm tour was booked by a group of 8. He even called the group to see if by chance someone was not able to come (that happened with his first tour of the day). The leader of the group stopped in to say they were all coming, and that several of them had special needs, requiring a simpler tour than I would have wanted. I was already asking Jeff detailed questions about when the 1860s row homes got running water. Susannah's Place is made up of four row homes, with only two currently on display while the other two are being shored up. I hesitate to say renovated since the goal is to be as authentic to how people lived in the homes, but also to be safe so no one is hurt while on a tour. During the shut down, they took the opportunity to make some repairs. When the first two are finished, the other two will go through a similar treatment.

This project was started 30 years ago. They are lucky they were able to interview someone who grew up in one of the homes. At some point they became council houses and fell into disrepair. One of the four homeowners fought to have these homes preserved for history rather than be demolished as many other early homes had been. Jeff let me poke my head into the living room and kitchen of the house that shares the gift shop. On the wall are two portraits of the family of the person they interviewed making it all feel more real, as if they could come home any minute. I failed in my mission to get a tour, but made a note to make a reservation before my next visit.

The circa 1950s kitchen was added on

Portraits of the family

The main room

At The Rocks Markets there were many wonderful vendors selling local art, but I was in the market for something small and inexpensive, so I returned to Paddy's Market. I wished I did my shopping in the Queen Victoria Market in Melbourne, but that was three cities prior. They had a better selection with a less dated and dingy feel.

Mostly I walked and took pictures, imprinting the city in my feet, my head, and my heart. As I walked I could hear loud cheering. Knowing the Australian Football finals were taking place (Brisbane vs. Collingswood). I popped into different bars to catch the score. I passed a bar with the famous Cheers logo on the outside (though looking nothing like it on the inside) just as Collingswood (Melbourne) scored the final goal eking out a last minute win against Brisbane. I felt bad for Andrew so I sent him and Jo a text with my condolences, after all I wouldn't have cared had he not taught me about Aussie rules football the week before. 

Feeling restless I walked across the Harbour Bridge again to Luna Park. It was nice walking around at night. I watched the sunset over the harbor. Unfortunately people were being evacuated from two of the rides due to malfunctions and there were police and emergency vehicles all over the place. I was under the impression everyone was fine, until the fires that closed the park down in the 1970s.

Perhaps my favorite picture of the trip.
Taken as I was crossing the bridge.
Don said he saw a similar picture
in his newsfeed on FaceBook.

Walking near Circular Quay I heard a busker playing Christmas music. Reminded me of our dinner on the tramcar in Christchurch. That was our last city in New Zealand. Poetic justice to hear it on my last city in Australia, too.

All good things must come to an end, if they do so kicking and screaming. I stopped at White Cheddar for fresh made gnocchi with mushroom sauce eaten at the bar with Johnny Cash music playing. It was very good. I was left with $1.50 AUS (less than $1 US). Time to go home when you run out of money. Fortunately mass transit takes credit cards so I didn't have to walk to the airport.

The day was not productive, but still enjoyable. At one point I received a text that my flight was delayed, cutting the time between that flight and my final one in Vancouver, Canada short. There were evangelists standing in front of a church near the Queen Victoria Market. I asked one to pray for my safe travels, and that I would catch my connecting flight. I think he was happy to have someone ask him for a prayer, so he obliged. The jet winds carried me to Vancouver in time for my last flight.

This ends the trip posts. I plan to write a few other ones with stray thoughts.  

Miss Saigon in Sydney

After a wonderful day on the coast I was looking forward to finally seeing "Miss Saigon" in the Sydney Opera House. Back home, we see a show most weekends, sometimes two or even three shows. Being away for nearly a month, and in an English speaking country, it is odd that this is the only show I saw.

I had a curry chicken dinner at a Thai restaurant I ate at a few days earlier. I knew it would be quick, cheap, and tasty. It did not disappoint.

Since it was after dark, I took my long walk to the opera house. During a tour, I learned there is a light show shown four times each night on the "sails," starting at sunset and repeating every half an hour. I wasn't sure exactly where to go, but when I arrived I asked a guard who pointed me to the giant staircase. I've seen videos of presentations on the sails and was expecting something much larger, much more grandiose. This was so tucked away, only myself and a couple were watching. Nearby there were children playing soccer, and couples snuggling on the stairs. As I had no idea how long the show would be, I was glad I could see the 7 pm showing and be in my seat well in advance of the 7:30 curtain. It was only six minutes long.

I played tourist and enjoyed the experience. At least 25 years ago I saw "Miss Saigon" on Broadway. I had a business meeting in New York and had to stay overnight, so Don took the train in so we could get tickets from TKTS in Times Square. "Miss Saigon" was the best option that night. "Miss Saigon" was the only option this time. The Sydney Opera House only one Broadway show a year. 

There was a souvenir book for sale, however given the lack of suitcase space, and knowing I would never reference it again, I did not buy one.

The theater holds about 1,500 people in the audience. It was sold out, with overflow standing directly behind my seat. The first half one of the worst audiences I have seen in a long time. People near me kept checking their cell phones. The couple next to me showed up late (and were distracted during the first half of the show). The standing room section behind me kept talking during the show (fortunately they did not return after intermission).

During intermission, I offered to take pictures of a couple. They returned the favor. The opera house was designed to show off the skyline. They made me feel relaxed as if I was a professional model on fashion shoot. Especially when I travel alone, it is hard for me to get a good picture of my whole body.

A selfie

Intermission seemed to be lasting just a little longer than I thought it would (based on when the bell rang encouraging us to return to our seats). We then heard the announcement, "the role of Kim will now be played by Louisa Villine." I was really glad  had taken pictures of the marquee before entering the show.

The lead, Abigail Adriano

The understudy, Louisa Villine

Curious as to what happened to our first act Kim, I looked her up on Instagram. She acknowledged she did not perform in act 2, but gave no explanation. What I did find fascinating is she is from Sydney. This is her first professional leading role. Growing up it was a dream to perform on this stage. After Sydney, she moved with the company to Melbourne. I let Jo in Brisbane know if the show continues to Brisbane she should try to see it.

As I walked back I met a local couple. She was walking with cane, so I would walk up to the next intersection and hit the cross button before she got there so her wait would not be too long. I was also texting Don as he was getting ready for work (or maybe he was at work?). It was a rare day to hear from him a couple of different times. He was still jetlagged from being in Australia. They were seeing a different show while I was at Miss Saigon. They said the night before there were four different shows happening at the same time with each theater feeling as if they were the only one in use. Pre-COVID the husband ran in the New York City Marathon. They saw Beautiful: The Carole King Musicale on Broadway. The show ran from 2014-2019. 

They showed me a slightly better way to get back to Rushcutters Bay. They were stopping at Woolloomooloo. They pointed out Russell Crowe's home, whom they have bumped into their parking garage. It was a fun conversation. They told me their favorite coffee shop was up the 107 steps closer to where I was staying. Out of curiosity, I stopped in. Even though Australia is known for its coffee, I still hadn't tried any.

   

Bondi Beach to Coogee Beach Trail

I woke to a beach day in a city famous for its beaches. I put my bikini on under my t-shirt and added a RipSkirt Hawaiian for the full I'm-on-vacation look. I walked up to the Kings Cross Railway Station, finally marveling that I am figuring out the mass transit system. I took the train two stops to Bondi Junction, saving myself at least an hour of walking.

When I pulled up Google Maps for directions to Bondi Beach, I saw a LEGO store, so I changed gears. I had left Don's LEGO passport in the room so it would stay dry, so I asked for supplemental pages. The timing was such Don was home from work and awake in New Jersey, so we FaceTimed.

This was the coolest LEGO store of my trip, I guess you could say I saved the best for last.

Lovely mural

I saw a lot of street art
in this part of Sydney

Since once again Google maps said the mass transit time was about the same as walking, and I see more while walking, I walked to Bondi Beach, the start of the famous Bondi Beach to Coogee Beach walk. I read to allow three hours for the 6 km (4.6 mile) walk. I forgot to note how much time to allow for enjoying each beach vs. walking. I also wasn't sure if I should start at Bondi and hike to Coogee, but reading this post, it recommends going the opposite direction from the way I walked because there is more to do in Bondi. I found plenty to do in Coogee, all of which was closer to the beach than I saw in Bondi. I don't think you could go wrong either way. I do recommend not just packing sunscreen, but actually applying it.

Along the walk I explored five beaches, and other sites. Each beach served a different purpose. Bondee Beach is famous for surfing and sunbathing on its white sand. It also had a lot of street art, many of which memorialized loved ones.

The whole wall had billboard sized murals

Started the day by dipping
my toes in the Pacific Ocean.

It was already 11:30 by the time I dipped my toes in the ocean. I knew I wanted to start the return trip by 4 pm so I could be ready to see Miss Saigon that night.

Australia's coastline is jagged, forming a half dozen different beaches in only a few kilometers. The same distance in New Jersey might take us from Asbury Park through Ocean Grove to Neptune with the only changes being in materials used for the boardwalk and other subtle changes, such as parking fees in Asbury Park, but free parking in Ocean Grove. 

This walk was a photographer's dream!

Unfortunately the next stretch of walkway, leading to Bondi Iceberg POOL was closed due to storm damage so we had to trek along the road until we could rejoin the path.

I wrote my thoughts down after the walk, which means most of the story is best told through the pictures I took with my phone rather than my detailed narrative.

My notes say:

• Path surfaces varied from concrete to large cobblestone
• Some parts of the path had rails, other parts did not
• Sometimes we had to go on the street
• Some parts of the path were on a cliff
• There were many inclines, with stairs, so many stairs!
• I walked 45 flights of "stairs" before returning to my room
• People ranged from families to teens in skimpy bikinis to tourists not dressed for the beach to groups of Asian tourists dressed for dinner
• There were areas cordoned off forming calm pools for wading
• Some beaches had a separate lap pool on the side
• I saw some signs for lifeguards, but only saw one lifeguard, and he was walking on the path not watching swimmers

The next part of the path took us past Aboriginal Rock Formations

A view of the fence

The first beach on the trail is MacKenzie's Bay. It is considered to be a hidden gem because though it is easily visibly from the Bondi to Coogee trail, there is no direct access. It also seems to disappear and reappear. When I walked past it I saw dogs joyfully playing on the beach, but no sunbathers. A web search brought up the article I just linked to dated a month before I was there with the headline MacKenzie's Bay is Back! The ultimate Sydney hidden gem returns! It has a placard, which is how I was able to find it in my notes even though it did not appear on maps of places to go while on the trail. 

Dogs playing on the beach at MacKenzie Bay

A rare lifeguard spotting!

The first official beach after Bondi is Tamarana Beach is the first beach after Bondi. It is about a mile from the large Bondi Beach.

Based on its sign, it is good for surfing and sunbathing.

It is hard to take a bad picture on a day like the one I had.

Bronte Beach was next. It is one of the larger beaches on this path, with lots of amenities including a pool and public rest rooms. Bronte Beach's claim to fame is they are the birthplace of surf life saving. 

Looking at this chart, I was there near 
low tide. Beautiful weather!

One of the more crowded beaches

It also had a swimming pool

Unsure of how much time it would take to complete the walk, I kept walking.

The next site of interest was a surprise. The path winds between the Victorian era Waverley Cemetery and the coast. It is considered to be the halfway point of the walk.

 

The Eastern Beaches Coastal Walk path continued past some sporting fields to Clovelly Beach, which boasts calm water perfect for swimming.

Like magic, Clovelly Beach pops up

Swimming pool to the right

We are coming up on what turned out to be my favorite spot: Gordon's Bay. It has been described as "a small piece of paradise." A quieter beach. Ideal for fishing, diving, swimming, and snorkeling. I liked the picturesque boats stacked closest to the path. There are a series of stairs between Clovelly Beach and Gordon's Bay, which added to the adventure of finding it.

On the banister of the staircase

This looks like my definition of paradise:
a quiet cove with civilization not
too far away

I was even drawn to walking
on the beach and putting
my feet in the water

 

Only one more beach left: Coogee Beach, otherwise known as my finish line. The path does continue few more kilometers up the coast, but the stretch from Bondi to Coogee was the one recommended. I did more than put my toes in the water here, I took off my outer layers, tossed them in my string bag, put the bag next to an overturned boat to use as a landmark, and went in the water. It was a huge leap of faith to leave a bag with my cell phone in it unattended on a public beach, but I noticed many others were also doing. I also noticed times on the trip when I saw people leave their bags unattended and they were still there when they returned.

Now that's a beach!

Off to the side was a path for Giles Bath.
It involved a more complicated path
than I felt like taking to go swimming
with teenage boys. 

I was either very brave or very stupid when I decided to go into the water. All I wanted to do was gently walk into it, perhaps getting wet up to my waist. After getting in about knee deep and being knocked over by a wave, I got up and tried again. The second beating was a little worse than the first, being that I was 10,000 miles away from my family, I decided to call it quits while I was still smiling and wrap myself in the travel towel I brought from New Jersey. The stupid part of the story is I saw teenagers riding waves and getting knocked about, so I should have recognized the possibility. I needed to go under the water at least once on the trip, and this was my last chance.

By some twist of fate, Don texted me while I was swimming, so I took the selfie and sent it to him. Yes, I was a little sunburned the next day.

The town of Coogee was much like the town of Manly Beach, only in this case the main road was not closed to cars. Leaving the beach and walking across the street I was shocked by how many teen and 20-something women were walking around wearing dental floss-sized bikinis. I made a comment about that to an Aussie woman about my age who replied how nice it is they have positive body images. I thought that was a good spin on the situation. The American prude in me wanted to tell them all to cover up!

I found a fish and chips place and had the healthy version -- not fried, with brown rice instead of French fries, and a "rocket" (arugula) pear salad as a side. Perfect meal after a long walk along the Australian coast.

One last look at the beach

For once I took mass transit both in the form of a bus to the train station, and a train to the neighborhood where I was staying. I cleaned myself up. As I hung my clothes to dry in the room, I was glad I still had one more day both to enjoy Sydney, and to give my clothes a chance to dry before I put them in the suitcase for 24 hours.