Canal Walking Tour

A few weeks ago Nancy invited me on a tour of the D&R Canal. Last year, Don and I toured the canal houses, but Nancy missed the open house and was hoping to go inside the Port Mercer Canal House in Lawrenceville. I just wanted to spend time with Nancy.

Our tour was sponsored by the West Windsor Historical Society, which confused me because we were starting in Lawrenceville. I learned near the end of the trip that the Port Mercer Canal House is on the modern day border of Lawrenceville and West Windsor, and across the street from Princeton. If you stood in just the right spot, in a position normally only seen while playing Twister, you could be in three separate towns.

Paul Ligeti with the West Windsor Historic Preservation, Vicki Churdro (Canal Park historian), and Jeff Lang with the Lawrence Historic Society were our guides. The talk started at the house with a brief history of the canal. The canal, which has the feel of a permanent landmark, was hand dug in the 1830s, starting just north in Kingston. To put that date in perspective, it did not exist when George Washington and his troops marched through Mercer County during the Ten Crucial Days that turned the tide of the Revolutionary War. I found that concept mind blowing.

While the canal was being built, the Camden-Amboy Railroad was also being built. The railroad was finished first (it was a lot less labor intensive to build a railroad). At first they were joint companies. The railroad officially opened in June 1834. It took another four years to complete the canal.

The canal was operated by having mules on one side of the tow path pulling the boats. It could accommodate very large vessels. By 1840 houses were built along the the canal, many to operate the locks the bridges. There were 14 locks on the canal, and one lock on a feeder canal. Steam boats were introduced on the canal in the 1840s.  The mules continued to be used until World War I, then they were phased out.

We were standing in the Village of Port Mercer, which in its day had six houses, a train station, shop, and mill. The basin was added to augment the mill. According to deeds from the 1830s, Joseph Gillingham owned the mill. Boats could pull into this alcove to onload produce, and offload coal. It is hard to imagine today with Mercer Mall and Nassau Park Pavilion just on the other side of the townhouses, but this was a mostly agricultural area until the 1980s.

This area was also called: Clarksville Basin (Clarksville Road is about two miles away) and Port Windsor. By the 1850s the name Port Mercer stuck.

The canal was seven feet wide in the 1830s, and expanded to eight feet in the 1850s. The width of the locks impacted what types of boats could travel on it. The canal was dredged regularly in the off season. It is not dredged as often now.

Our retired historian, Dennis Waters, added that the watershed divided the space between the Raritan and Delaware rivers. We are only about 50 feet above sea level. In the Colonial era, this area would flood every spring from Stonybrook to Shippentaucken to the Delaware. In 2021 the Canal House flooded during Hurricane Ida.

The soil is very rich, making it perfect for agriculture. It it flat. Here the canal flows north, but on the other side of the berm the creek flows south. The Port Mercer dyke is perpendicular to the canal to control some of the flooding between the two watersheds. 

The historians pointed to an obelisk hidden in plain sight. This one commemorates

the path Washington took in late 1776/early 1777 as he marched the troops to Princeton. In 1914 the Sons of the Revolution put 12 obelisks along the route. Some still exist, including one in the middle of Quaker Bridge Road, one by the turn to Nassau Park Pavilion, and other one just up Quaker Road towards Princeton Pike.

The railroad was parallel to the canal from 1839 to 1863 when it was moved a few miles away to a straighter path. The store that was on the canal was originally a train stop. Today 75% of the buildings still exist. There was a downturn when the railroad moved. 1892 was the last profitable year for the canal, though it continued until the 1930s. The store was taken down within the past century. Maybe it was falling apart. Or maybe, the owners wanted a little bit of waterfront property. The yellow house was a hotel in the 1840s. The red and blue houses were tenant homes in the 1830s to 1850s. Today the three are private homes. Some of the owners (including the family that moved in early that week) were on the tour with us.

After walking on the private property of the former inn, and other homes still 
standing, they said we were standing on the demarcation line between the two halves of New Jersey. In those days our state was divided into East Jersey and West Jersey, today it is North Jersey and South Jersey with many arguing there should also be a Central Jersey.

The canal house is not the original building. It is where the bridge tender lived with his family. It was his job to swing the bridge and collect tolls during the day six day a week (boats were not supposed to run on Sundays). The captains would use a conch shell to announce when they were nearing the bridge. When we wasn't available (he often worked on farms to earn extra money), his wife and children did the work. John Pittman was the tender in the 1860s. Jams McGuigan held the role for 40 years. The last family were the Arrowsmiths, including a husband, wife (Anna), and eight children in a tiny three bedroom home with a kitchen in the basement. The historian assured us the children were spread out, so likely all ten were not living in the house at the same time. The house seemed even smaller than our 1,000 square foot row home on Plum Street in Trenton.

The children skated on the canal and spent much time outside. Tragically their son William crashed through the ice and died. Their daughter, Carrie, continued to live in the house after it became a monitoring station for the state. She finally moved out in the 1960s when he rent went from $10 a year to $30 a month. At that point the state took it over as a water supply house. In 1974 the D&R Canal State Park was formed. The following year, the Lawrenceville Historical Society was formed.

The kitchen, which is now a gift shop, was added in the 1900s. The original Sears furnace is still in the basement.  The bathroom was added in 1975 by the historical society, up until then, the family used the outhouse. 

It was a lovely spring day for a stroll. The original intent was to walk about a mile and a half each way. I'd be surprised if we walked more than half a mile. It was good seeing the path used by cyclists, runners, and fishermen. The park is such an asset.

Life Lessons From the Montagne de Bueren in Liege, Belgium

The Montagne de Bueren is one of the most recognizable and unique places in Liege. As I climbed all 374 stairs I reflected on it as a metaphor for life, or a series of life lessons. 

1) Words matter.

The French word montagne implies mountain. But when you arrive at the location you see a giant staircase. If I were the one in charge of naming, I'd call them the escalier and not montagne. Words matter. Words help set expectation. If I was expecting a mountain, I'd likely wear different shoes than I would for stairs. Hiking shoes. Ones that can get dirty. Maybe even shoes with crampons if I'm worried about ice. Mountains have windy paths. Stairs are straight.

2) Sometimes the route is not complicated.

In this case, there was only one way to get to the top. No side detours. No short cuts. No funicular. No other option but to take one step at a time (I suppose if you are more athletic, you can take them two at a time).

3) It is better to go with a friend.

You don't have to do this alone. Bring a friend. Maybe even bring lunch and eat on the steps together.

4) There are places to rest along the way. Take advantage of these spots.

Every ten steps (or so, it varies) there is a plateau to rest. to pause. Life doesn't always pace out these resting spots, but when they happen, use them. 

5) If it is too hard to continue, knock on a door and ask for help.

The stairs are lined with houses. At least one has been turned into a B&B. People live there. I even saw a house for sale.

6) Use the handrail as needed.

Handrails and other helpers exist. Don't be afraid to use them. That's what they are there for.

7) Sometimes the rules are clearly written. 

Follow the rules. Especially when written in multiple languages.

8) Nature finds a way to succeed even when life is tough.

Weeds thrive in unlikely places. We, too, can thrive everywhere, even in places that don't seem welcoming.

9) Don't forget about animals.

They have shorter legs, which should make it harder, but they are still on the same path. Somehow they never seem to complain. I can learn from them.

10) Go at your own pace.

Some people will run ahead of you. others will huff and puff behind you. Most will make it to the top. Go at the speed that is right for you. Life is not a race. Try to enjoy it along the way.

11) Celebrate at the top!

Smile! Take a picture. Not everyone makes it to the top.

12) Celebrate with strangers.

Take the picture of someone who doesn't speak your language. Enjoy the moment together.

13) Enjoy the view. 

Take a moment to look around and appreciate your success.

14) Down might be just as hard as up.

Going down uses different muscles. Recognize there are challenges in everything you do, and accept that.

We're Going on a Troll Hunt

Last fall I happened to be at Historic Smithville Park when the Burlington County Troll Trek was unveiled. Originally slated to be on display through the end of 2024, the trolls proved to be so popular they have been extended indefinitely. I'm glad because the fall was busy and we didn't end up seeing them.

With the nice Spring weather, Don and I took the convertible for a spin through Burlington County to find all 19 trolls. It took two trips as after four hours we were running out of daylight after only 13 trolls. A few days later we saw the last six and celebrated with ice cream.

Nineteen is not right. It is now 18. One of the trolls was damaged beyond repair in March. Fortunately (for us) it was one of the few trolls within walking distance of another troll so we didn't drive far. 

The website includes a pirate-style artistic rendering of where the tolls are located. The map is not at all in scale. Going in numeric order would not work. I opted to be driver and put Don in charge of navigating (with the help of Google maps). The first few we looked at were located in cute towns, some of which we had never visited before this. As we went further down the list, the trolls were more hidden. They were in nature centers and behind a school and after a sign that said No Trespassing. The trek showed us parts of Burlington County we have never seen before.

I am presenting the list in the order we saw them using the numbers from the official map. 

Located on Farnsworth Avenue in Bordentown #17 was an easy place for us to start. The statue is called "Edward," which to me seems odd because there are two of them. I like their flower table.

#16 "Riley, The Abilities Troll" lives in front of the Resources for Independent Living Staff. His "cape-of-abilities" represents the organization's mission of empowering people with disabilities. Each of the trolls seemed to have a sponsor, but this one had the stronger tie to their sponsor. 351 High Street, Burlington.

Two down! We walked across the railroad tracks to 420 High Street, only to find a blank spot. #15 "The Art Troll" survived for six months and was lost to wind storms the week before. Before we left I looked for the flyer I received in September. When I couldn't find it, I found one on Burlington County website and printed a fresh one. This one is updated and had the information about the missing troll.

The next troll didn't look far away on our pirate map, and it was a nice day for a stroll along the Delaware River, so we walked to it. If we had paced ourselves faster, we would have driven to this giant fisherman. #14 "Visser" is a Dutch fisherman who loves sunsets over the water and listening to birdsongs. I wonder if he'll attract a birds' nest this spring. We walked past an ice cream parlor back to my car.

"Hagatha" (#13) is located in Delanco. Her description says she "has a mysterious past, but is present now." She is located next to an ice cream shop. I'm detecting a theme.

"Noelle the Troll" (#12) is at the Burlington County Agriculture Center. Lots of places to park, but we were the only ones there that Thursday afternoon. The Agriculture Center has lots of events happening this spring and summer. The troll trek was an opportunity to see what is happening off our usual path.

Elbo Park in Mount Laurel is where "Sally McSraps," a froggy looking troll lolls on the lawn. When we arrived at the playground side of the park we asked someone if they knew where the troll was located. They looked at us as if we had three heads. Another person pointed us in the direction of the other side of the circular path. The loop was only half a mile. #11 looked pretty chill to me.

Medford is one of the cutest towns I have ever seen. This hunt finally took me here. I've been advised to return in the winter to see when the town turns into a Dickens inspired downtown. "Flora" is number 10. With the grass growing out of her head, she is alive.

"Melinda"

First selfie of the trek

With "Melinda" we went from a trek to a hunt, meaning from here on out we were no longer in small towns with ice cream parlors but off the beaten track. "Melinda" (#9) is located in a park inside a neighborhood in Lumberton, NJ. The township is her co-sponsor. She does look very friendly, inviting you to sit down and have a chat with her.

If Don had been the driver, and I was the navigator, we might not have seen "Big Rusty" (#1) as he was located behind a No Trespassing sign with the subtext "those who disobey will be shot on sight." Since I was driving, I took the clue that the clean white SUV in front of us confidently continued past the sign, then I noticed a sign that basically said "ignore the first sign." We ended up next to an abandoned house that has turned into a prime spot for graffiti. It also seems to be a teenage hang out. I noticed the scent of fresh spray paint as Don was noticing the aroma of fresh pot. We lingered, taking pictures around the house and left as I was feeling old and didn't feel like mothering the teens. I later learned there are plans to turn Big Rusty into the Creek Turn Park, a legit county (town?) park. Rusty's artist, the internationally known Thomas Dambo, started the whole troll trek creating Rusty out of recycled materials found at the abandoned Creek Turn Ceramic Factory off of Route 38. All of the trolls seem to be creatively made out of recycled materials. 

Though all of the trolls have GPS coordinates, the ones with descriptions that say "near" were the more challenging ones. Don said this was the hardest one to find. There were more on our second trip I found more challenging to locate.

This took us to the two I saw being unveiled. We later learned they will be moved soon, one to Delran and the other to Delanco. For now they are at Historic Smithville Park.  

"Gracie, the Gardener" (#2) is made out of bottle caps. She sits on a bench waiting for friends.

"Troll on a Stroll" (#3) is made out of recycled bicycle parts, paying homage to Smithville's Star bicycle days. As Don is into cycling, he wanted to pose with "Nels."

We pressed on for two more before dark because they were not very far away, and seemed easy to knock out. These two are in Mount Holly, another charming town. "Retlaw" (#4) enjoys gardening. He (she?) was easy to find. We parked in the lot behind the troll.

Number 5, "Bucket Head Bobby" was tricky. The address (near) 61 Washington Street pointed us to a stone business with an oven sitting in front of it I kept trying to make into a troll. Further reading says "finding his footing near the Rancocas Creek, Bobby started his journey with an old tractor tire for shoes." Rancocas Creek. We looked across the street and through some bushes and sure enough, the Bucket Head was standing on a former railroad trestle. 

The sun was setting fast, and I had been spooked by Big Rusty's location, so we put a pause on our hunt and had dinner at the Flying Pig in Bordentown instead.

We continued the trek on Sunday with five to go.

Don chose to start at Arney's Mount Park because we are hoping to go there for a glow worm hunt later this month and he wanted to see how long it will take (just over 30 minutes). "Tommy the Tetaus Troll" (#19) is up a trail from the Arney's Mount Park parking lot in Columbus, NJ. I felt he was less accessible than the others. 

"Kevin" (#18) was only ten minutes down the road, but felt like I entered another universe. I thought I was going to be shot as I drove into redneck territory with my glaringly liberal baby blue car. We had to drive past a Dead End street (may as well have said trespassers will be shot on sight) past a ball field that was being mowed and to a small park to the side. I loved Kevin's springs, but still breathed a sigh of relief once on the other side of the demarcation zone.

Our wheels for the trek

"Weft" (#6) lives behind the Rancocas Valley High School Annex not far from Historic Smithville Park. He has a sign that tells visitors not to come when school is in session. While I understand, but the time you see the sign, it is too late. The RVHS Environmental Club made him, "he is a product of the textile industry and wants to give back to the earth he was born from."

"Woody" is at the Ranconcas Nature Center, or rather down a half-mile trail away from the nature center. This was the first troll we had people hunting with us. The two other groups felt they accomplished something by seeing him. We were happy to find a bathroom we could use.

The docent inside said the next one (our last!) we were about to see is her favorite one. This got me to think about which one is my favorite.

Library!

Located at the Burlington County Amphitheater, "Pipsqueak" (#8) was our last troll. She has ladybug wings.

I was surprised that the town of Roebling did not get a statue. The factory town is famous for making Roebling steel, which was used to build the Brooklyn Bridge (and many other bridges). Since the trolls are made out, Roebling steel would be a natural fit. Roebling is inside of Florence, NJ, which also does not have a troll.

At this point we could either travel north to go home, or south to Medford where a friend recommended Peewee's Ice Cream. Chipwreck and Carrot Cake ice cream. Chipwreck is the flavor that won their version March Madness. Peewee's specializes in premium small batch ice cream. It was a little breezy, so we ate inside.

I don't know which one is my favorite. They are each very creative and different. I like the ones that tie into the theme that makes them unique (such as #16 and #3). It is hard to tell in the pictures, but some are enormous, and others would easily fit in the back of a pick up truck.

If you have a favorite, drop a note in the comments.

May Day Protest

Another month ... another protest. This May Day protest included marching from Freedom Plaza at Princeton University down Washington to Nassau Street to Witherspoon Street, ending near Hinds Plaza, or at least that's when I left.

The posters I saw before the protest said the protest was against ICE and their policies of grabbing people using Gestapo-inspired tactics. Yes, our nation is a mess. But, and this is a huge but, we are still legally gathering and standing up to the tyranny. As long as we can do so, I will continue to show up, take pictures, and spread the word that this is wrong.

I keep thinking back to something I read recently: Nazis were nice. They followed the rules. They didn't make waves. You know who wasn't nice? Resisters. They fought for the rest of us.

These are not the times to be nice. These are the times to stand up and encourage our leaders to do what is right.

In anticipation of the tariffs, we upgraded our phones last week. The iPhone 16 Pro comes with a 25x zoom. I used this to take pictures of protests signs from afar.

Here are my pictures: