I have barely a page and a half's worth of notes for the day, but I do have a lot of pictures, and I'll sprinkle that with some research and thoughts that have been bouncing around my head.
I started my sightseeing with a visit to the Museum of Walloon Life. Opened in 2008, this museum talks about ordinary life of the locals from the 19th century to today. I saw pictures from the 1960s and thought "that's a long time ago," as I chastised myself for realizing those pictures were closer to how Liege looked in 1987 than how it looks today. The museum included a 1996 cellphone, early 2000 chocolate bars, and a 4-color pen behind glass (I later saw people still use these pens, but at the moment, it made me feel old). There were also tram signs from Liege's original tram. I hadn't appreciated they used to have a tram. The new ones should start soon after I leave (they were in the test stage).
I wanted to tackle the Montagne de Bueren. This are 374 stairs that go up alongside a mountain. Legend has it they were built in 1881 because the way people used to climb down from the top of the mountain to the city went past, shall we call them distractions, and the army preferred that their soldiers stayed on task. The stairs are at 30% incline. I saw students picnicking on the stairs, scout groups climbing them, and people heading home. Homes fill in the space on either side of the staircase. From what I later learned, these homes are prime real estate. One woman I spoke with said she climbs the stairs twice a day, every day, just to live. I saw cats and dogs walking along the stairs. I originally set a goal of climbing them everyday, but decided against it after feeling my knees moan after my third climb.On this first day I saw a father with his 10-year old son. They drove 300 kilometers from their home in Germany on a day trip. My kind of people. They don't speak French or much English, just enough to ask to have a picture taken together. I should have asked him to take one of me, too. All my pictures are selfies.
At the top of the stairs I turned right and headed to the war memorial. I walked around the park. I remembered abandoned brick buildings that were used during WWII. I couldn't match what I saw with my memories. Today there is a large park with views of Liege, and modern hospital.
I then walked to my first host sister's house. I just wanted to make it feel real. The name plate said she and her husband still live there. Two days later she wrote to say life is complicated. Sorry, but next time. There won't be a next time.
I passed Les Olivettes and remembered visiting this karaoke bar with Karla, a 16-year old from New Jersey. I remember a wooden cut out of the King and Queen waving their arms. Two days later, my host mother reminded me of that experience, thus making it even more real. Later in the trip I stepped inside. It did not feel familiar. I did not see le roi et la reine.
Places were coming back to me. Layers of memories were being dusted off.
I dined al fresco as the cafes were open and Spring was in the air. I opted for les boulets, Liege meatballs, with a glass of wine. After all, the VRBO was only around the corner.
By this point I realized I no longer needed to save time to spend with the first and third host families so I started brainstorming what else to do? Where else to go? Spa? Antwerp?
Yoran we picking me up the next afternoon for an overnight with his family. The highlight of my trip.
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