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Thursday, April 17, 2025

Broadway Beginnings by Tim of Broadway Up Close

There were weeks during the pandemic when Tim's Broadway Up Close virtual tours became our lifeline to the outside world. Though we are only an hour and a half outside of Broadway, at the time the Great White Way felt years away. Tim would optimistically end his tours with "One Day Closer to Broadway," 18 months later that day finally came.

When I learned Tim was doing a talk in person at the Montauk Club in Brooklyn, Don and I signed up. It didn't really matter that it was the day after I returned home from Belgium, his talk would give me the incentive I needed to come home.

Though I had just come home, I forgot to bring a notebook to jot thoughts down. I was able to get a piece of paper from the talk organizer and wrote in my smallest handwriting completely filling the backside. If we hadn't just gone on the tour of the Hudson Theater, I would have run out of space.

Fifteen years ago Tim gave his first tour of the history of every single Broadway theater. It lasted 7 1/2 hours. His only attendee, and friend, said it was great, but cut it down. Three years later he was giving tours of the outside, a haunted tour, and with the Hudson, he started to give interior tours.

Much of his talk was reminiscent of stories he told on his virtual tours. 

From 1880-1890, Broadway was located in Herald Square. Today Keen's Steakhouse remains from that era. Keen's was three townhouses blued together. The surrounding theaters would pour into it during intermission, where the actors would get drunk before act 2. They are also famous for having a collection of 45,000 pipes in the ceiling and another 45,000 in the basement. When a patron dies, the lore goes that their pipe is cracked. Sadly, that rumor was debunked.

Wearing his signature green, Tom told us about the skyscraper that was built in Times Square in 1901 that is not only used as the most expensive advertising. They are in the process of renovating the building to include an observatory and glass elevator leading to the the famous crystal ball.

The 1899 Victoria Theater (now the New Vic) was the first Broadway theater. In 1930 they were a Burlesque theater. The rule was as long as the performers stood still, they could show any (and every) body part. Gypsy Rose got her start here. When they renovated the theater they removed seats to bring it down to 499 seats, or just one less than is required to be considered Broadway.


In the early days, it was popular to have theaters on the roofs. Air conditioning was not a thing and it was often cooler up there. One theater owner pumped hot air into their elevator so when patrons got to the roof it felt much cooler. Yes, theater people are really showmen. One theater had a farm on the roof with a river and a windmill. I just can't imagine!

Theater people are superstitious, this is how the tradition of the ghost light started. On March 11, 2020 all the theaters turned on their ghost lights to shut down for "two weeks." Eighteen months later, all of the lights still worked (thanks to LED technology). 

We heard about Olive Thomas at the New Amsterdam theater -- a story we once heard from Steve, the security guard who had the gift for gab. We miss seeing him on our trips.

Theater tidbit: thanks to school performances, the 1991 show "The Secret Garden" recently finally recouped their original expenses. They are struggling to find all of their original investors to give them their royalty checks. Hard to track down investors when the list was created over 30 years ago before anyone had an email address.

Hopefully my teasers interest you enough to check out one of Tim's tours. They are all excellent.

What was the biggest surprise to us was the venue, the Montauk Club in Brooklyn. My jaw dropped walking inside and seeing the Gilded Age style interior design. I can see why it is often used as the setting for movies. One of the owners nearly has us convinced to join as non-locals only pay $275 a year for membership and can visit clubs around the world as well as attend events for free year-round. We paid $60 to hear this talk. That's a dent in the membership. If we thought we would go at least every other month, I think we would join. If we find more events we will attend, we will join. Members are allowed to bring a guest for free.








The real highlight was after the tour we took the subway back to the PATH station with Tim and his mother. They are both so sweet and kind. 




Cherry Blossoms in Newark, NJ

Why travel to Washington, DC or Tokyo, Japan when you can see cherry blossoms in New Jersey? There are lots of other reasons to visit those cities, but the cherry blossoms can be fickle and the crowds large.

While I was away in Belgium, Don stumbled upon an article about the cherry blossoms in Newark, NJ. This reminded me someone once told me about them and remarked they are as nice, if not nicer, than the famous ones in Newark, NJ. At 5,000 trees in 18 different varieties, Branch Brook Park has 1,200 more than Washington, DC.

The collection began by a donation of 2,000 trees from Caroline Bamberger in memory of her sister, Mrs. Felix Fuld. The following year, the family donated another 1,600 trees. Yes, Bamberger as in the the family of the former department store. Thanks to a 2007 park renovation, there are now more than 5,000 trees.

They are stunning. We choose the perfect day to see them. On that Maundy Thursday afternoon, the sky was blue, there was a gentle breeze. Families with children off from school were walking around. Many were taking pictures. It was idyllic.

As this was meant to only be a pause on our way into New York City to hear a presentation at the Montauk Club about the history of Broadway, we did not allow enough time to enjoy the park. Don has already said he wants to return next year. Perhaps we'll time it better and participate in their annual 10K race, or challenge bike race, or perhaps we'll just aim to go midweek when it should be less busy. 

Typically taking place in mid-April, the Cherry Blossom Festival has been an annual tradition for the past 40 years. 














Tuesday, April 15, 2025

Belgium Adventures Day 14: Layover in Oslo

One of the things that excited me about the flight home was that it included a 20-hour layover in Oslo. Seven years ago when we took a Norwegian Cruise through the Baltic Sea our itinerary did not include Norway, though it did include every other Scandinavian city and more.

Landing at 3 pm I knew I only had a few hours for sightseeing. I'm sharing both what I did, and what I would have done it differently in case you are reading this for advice.

Traveling in Europe is so different from the United States. The airports are designed anticipating you will want to leave to explore the nearby city. There are two different trainlines that go into the Oslo Airport: Vy Train and FlytoGet. The former is included in the Oslo Pass (easily purchased online) which gives you 24 hour access to all mass transit (including the Vy train from the airport) and many museums, the latter is 4 minutes faster, twice as expensive, and not included. 

I knew time was limited, so I created a quick cheat sheet of things to do:

Cathedral

National Opera House: walk on top

Munsch Museum

City Hall (Closed at 4 pm)

Vigeland Sculpture Park / Frogner Park


Because I had a layover, I checked my suitcase through to Newark Airport and used a backpack for the day. I found the train, bought the pass (which, unlike in Belgium, was never checked) and rode the train 23 minutes to the main train station.

I left the train train station and looked around. Temperatures were in the upper 60s. The sky was Southern California blue. It was an amazing day to be outside exploring a city for the first time. 

I crossed the streets and went to the Opera House where you climb on the roof from the outside. When I read about going on the roof, I assumed you'd have to go inside, find a secret staircase, and emerge at the top on the roof. I didn't picture tiered floors gently leading you to the top. Children were on scooters. Teens were playing ball. People were walking their dogs to the top. It was quite a party scene. 

From the roof I saw a museum, but did not realize it was the Munsch Museum as I only saw the last few letters until later (after it was closed). They close at 6 early in the week, and 8:30 closer the weekend. Next time I have a long layover in the city.

I also saw huts attached to the land, with ladders dipping into the fjord. Had I remembered a friend's advice and packed my bathing suit, I could have gone for an icy dip. Instead, I started to walk to the (Gustav) Vigeland Sculpture Park. Sure, I could have hopped on mass transit, but with only a few hours in the city, walking gave me more opportunities to explore Oslo.

I walked past the Cathedral (now closed), and past the National Theater (admiring the bicycle statue), and around parliament. At this point I clearly left the tourist district and thought about taking mass transit, but the bus line I was on was temporarily out of service, so I kept walking.

Finally I arrived in the park. After dropping a book off in a Little Free Library / Phone Booth (sometimes it helps to have reading material while you are on hold), I noticed the statues of naked people doing a variety of activities. The park boasts over 200 marble, bronze, and wrought iron statues.

I took a tram back to the central business district and found dinner. Though it was mid-April in Norway, I ate al fresco. The restaurant had both heat lamps and blankets, though neither was needed. It was a perfect night.

I wasn't quite ready to leave the city so I roamed around the area near the train station. Here I saw the closed Munsch Museum, but I also saw the open library. The library was several floors deep with a large section of books in foreign languages, a large children's section, and the biggest section of books in Braille I have ever seen in a public library. The inside was mostly black and red, so it didn't appeal to me aesthetically, but I was able to tap into their wifi and use the restroom, so wins.

I took the train to the airport and found the airport shuttle, which was not free. The next day I followed a couple of 20-somethings when I missed the airport shuttle and took the city bus, which was included in the Oslo Pass. It was confusing figuring out which were non-free shuttle buses and which were city buses. I'm not sure I'd be able to figure it out any differently next time, though next time I would stay in Oslo.

The breakfast buffet at the hotel was out of this world! There were five different types of eggs, for example. 

Things I would have done differently:

1) Booked a hotel near the Central Train Station as it took just as long to get to the airport from the airport hotel as it would have from the center of town. Or at least I'd look into it. My airport hotel was only $60 for the night with an incredible breakfast.

2) Made a beeline for the Munsch Museum as I had enough time to see it and it was close to the train station. Saved the Sculpture Park until after the museum closed.

3) Packed a bathing suit and two towels in carryon so I could go to a sauna on the fjord. Or at least the sauna at the hotel using the hotel towel.

Pictures from the day:

The Vy Train


Outside the train station

Inside the train station

On the roof of the opera house

View from the opera house
Cruise ship moving on for the night


On the upper level of the opera house


The saunas on the fjord

Opera House


Central Business District

"Put a bird on it."

Cathedral

Downtown IKEA

Spring is in the air
Planting was taking place




National Theater

Statue in honor of Gunnar Sonstenby who used his
bicycle as a member of the Resistance during WWII



Parliament


Little Free Library/Active Phone Booth

Statues in Vigeland Sculpture Park in Frogner Park











Dinner al fresco

Tiger statue

Oslo library



Spring is in the air!

My room with the two duvets