Mill Hill is perhaps the most charming section of Trenton. Nestled between downtown, the Assunpink Creek, and Route 1 it is close-knit neighborhood middleclass that has survived seemingly mostly unchanged for over 150 years. The two and three story rowhomes that were built between 1850 and 1895 are still standing today.
Last week I went on Trenton Walk's 55th tour, my fourth. They have surpassed Key West in their tiny weekly sessions and are now moving figuratively north towards Maine. Tim represented the group. Jean, a long-time Mill Hill resident, was our expert guide.
Mill Hill as a region dates back to Mahlon Stacy's 1679 mill. The property is built on what counts as a hill in Central Jersey terms, i.e., flat according to just about everyone else. The site's claim to fame was it was the site of the January 2, 1777 Second Battle of Trenton in the Revolutionary War. General George Washington stood up on the high ground, giving him an advantage in the battle.
The bridge that stood there in 1777 was replaced in 1888. Today much of it is under the road, but it is still there. A pond stood in hi this area to support the mill. By 1850 the pond was filled in and what we think of as the footprint for Mill Hill was formed.
We walked through the park to the Montgomery Street Bridge and the statue of George Washington that we studied on an earlier walk. Since this walk, Ashley said there is an interpretive sign is in front of the statue sharing the stories we heard on the tour. The statue is 14 feet tall, it weighs ten tons and is built from a single block of Italian marble. It was erected for the Chicago World Expo, afterwards it was sold for $10,000. The person died before they could finish the payment. It was put up for auction. The city of Trenton bought it for a mere $300. Five minutes after the gavel came down and SOLD was declared, a representative from Washington and Lee College arrived willing to offer up to $1,000, but he was too late. The train company offered to deliver it for free. For years it stood in Trenton's Cadwalder Park before it was moved to Mill Hill. It had fallen into disrepair and was covered in graffiti and mostly forgotten.Behind the statue is the Mill Hill Playhouse, where Ashley works. It is an 1873 Gothic Revival church. In 1902 it was taken over by the Evangelical Lutherans. In 1977 the city of Trenton took it over and secured the funds to repair it. It was featured in the 1981 Eye on Trenton Festival. It is the only theater in Trenton.
Next to the playhouse is the Alexander Douglass House. Now in its third location, it dates back to the Revolutionary War era and is on the national historic registry. The Douglass House used to be a Methodist church. It was called the "house of decision" since Washington met here following the Second Battle of Trenton to decide what to do next.
Mill Hill Park was built in the 1970s. In 1974 Architects Housing was built as a 501c3 apartments, set up by AIA-NJ as low income/senior housing. It opened in 1979. Jean pointed out, the 1970s were a great time for federal funding.
Jean lives in one of a half-dozen wooden houses in Mill Hill. She took us in her her alleyway to her backyard, which overlooks the creek. It is an oasis for hummingbirds and other wildlife. Her two cats stared at us from her upper level screened in porch. Standing on her deck it is easy to forget the city is not far away.
Most of the rest of her neighborhood are brick homes. In the 1970s, thanks to government funding, urban renewal took place. Sidewalks were replaced by brick paths. Streetlamps were replaced by Victorian-style gas lamps, which are still maintained annually. Electricity was moved underground.
In 1964 Trenton Mayor Arthur Holland made international news when he chose to move into Mill Hill. One headline read "Mayor Moves into Biracial Neighborhood" (technically, mostly African American). That house is next door to where Jean lives. Mayor Holland saw the potential of urban neighborhoods before many others did. He lived there for twenty years with his wife and their five children. He died in the 1990s. His widow, Betty, still lives in Ewing.
We walked up the street to the current home of Mercer Street Friends, a charity that does a lot to help people in the greater area. The building, a former Quaker Meeting House, is also on the national historic registry.
Number 159 Mercer Street is the former
Labor Lyceum. Built in 1916 as a Jewish fraternal organization, it is one example of the many workers' organizations that used to exist in this area. In the mid-2000s it was converted to condos.Across the street is The Colony at Mill Hill, built in the 1980s, but maintaining the flavor of the area.
We turned onto Jackson Street. Jean explains outdoor work has to be approved by the Landmarks Commission. They try to keep the flavor of the neighborhood.
We ended the tour in front of Bill's house -- a grand Victorian 5-bedroom home he and his wife moved into last year to live with their daughter. She was tired of paying high rent in Princeton and fell in love with Mill Hill. They did, too. The house is described as a Victorian home on 3/4 scale. The front part, with the mansard roof, was built in the 1880s. The house has been on the tour 22 times with three different owners.
Next to Bill's house is the Holy Assumption Russian
Orthodox Church. It was on the tour in 1972. Jean still remembers the blue ceiling with the stars on it. The church was originally a house.Jean said in 1966 Bob Allen bought a home on Jackson Street. It was in awful shape. He rehabbed it and hosted an open house Christmas Party. In 1972 more people joined him, a map was made. The 200 block joined the tour in 1983. Three years later, in 1986, Clay Street residents also joined in. That same year they started the garden tour. In 2016 Mill Hill celebrated their 50th anniversary of the Holiday Tour.
Jean cited the following statistics:
149 house and three churches
33 individuals and couples on the tour
Each year different people are on the tour
15,000 people have toured.