Last Sydney Leg: two days

Our roundtrip ticket meant we began and ended the trip in Sydney. The first leg was a few days. The last leg, just two. We stayed at the Veriu Central, an art deco style hotel that is a quick walk from the Museum stop on the train in one direction, and Chinatown in the other. As with other trips, it was often a similar amount of time to take mass transit vs. walking. Unlike past trips, we opted for mass transit over walking. Sydney has a wonderful Tap On Tap Off system that has a daily cap of either $10 (weekends) or $16 (weekdays) (should double check the amounts). We maxed out most days in most cities.

After checking into our hotel at 1 pm, we changed and headed to the Sydney Harbor Bridge's pylon. This is about a tenth of the price of the Harbor Bridge climb, and a better option for someone with a bum leg. It also meant we could take lots of pictures. Everyone who has ever done the Harbor Climb swears it was the best experience of their lives (or at least of their trip), so I don't want to dissuade anyone, but we both knew it was not for us.

On our first leg to Sydney we met a man who suggested the Spit to Manly hike, followed by the ferry back to Circular Quay in downtown Sydney. It amazed us how far reaching mass transit it. Using Google Maps, we made it to the Spit Bridge, which we walked over, to the trail.

Like the Bondi to Cogee Walk we did during our first leg, this hugs the coastline and has varied terrains. It is 10k (6 miles) long. Passes less beaches, more "bush," as someone described it to us. At the halfway point the sun was getting lower in the sky and we lost the trail. We were at a parking lot at Tania Park. More misadventures in reading Google Maps and we made it to a bus stop just as a bus was appearing. We waved him down and he stopped for us. The ride took us to the wharf in Manly, where we took the sunset ride back to Circular Quay, otherwise known as the poor man's sunset dinner cruise (no dinner).

Dined in the Australia Hotel -- an historic landmark. Beautiful inside, but many, many stairs. They have a beautiful rooftop bar, but it was too many stairs for Don, plus too cold. He caught a chill on the ferry ride.

Mass transit to within a couple of blocks of our hotel. Sleep!

The next day started out rainy. We lingered over breakfast at the café next door to our hotel. Then lingered some more in museums. Most museums are free. The first one was the ANZAC war memorial. Australia New Zealand Army Corps. The Australians honor their soldiers in ways we don't do in the United States.

Then we walked a couple of more blocks to the Australia Museum. By the time we were annoyed by school groups and crowds doing like us to avoid the rain, the rain stopped and we walked to Circ Quay to catch the ferry to Manly. I feel like we are finally figuring out our way around Sydney -- just in time to leave. We walked around Manly before finding the trailhead. This end of the trail starts with a 2k walk on sidewalks along the main beach and through neighborhoods before becoming seriously off-road. There were times we wondered if we had lost the trail.

About to board.

Dinner at Yacht Club. 

Hunt for Penguins

Dark ferry ride back

Tram to hotel

Check out easy. Looking at ride share apps, that was cheaper than taking the train, so that's what we did. Seems counterintuitive.

Wish us luck on the 14 hour ride (probably more like 15 hours in the plane).

Penguin hunt.

Brisbane Leg

Sitting on the floor of the Brisbane Airport because, just like many of the other airports, this one does not have many places to plug in devices. Back in the Sydney airport an Asian man and I both lunged for the only outlet in the gate waiting area. I won because my adapter had a slot he could use to charge his phone. Sharing for the win!

We arrived Friday afternoon. Met up with Andrew at his office to drop off our bags. After a quick lunch at the Vietnamese place across the street, we went to the Urgent Care site on the ground floor of his office building. For those keeping score, yes, this was the fourth doctor's visit in a week and a half. Hopefully the last as they offered much encouragement.

Don's swollen thigh with no discoloration has morphed into a purple swollen leg. By Friday afternoon we could see the purple giving way to green and yellow. No, I have not been taking pictures. He still uses the crutch on long jaunts, but can get by without it for shorter walks, such as around the house. The crutch also gives him sympathy from airport staff allowing for early boarding.

This office only opened up a few weeks ago. We were the only ones there. Like the Urgent Care in Melbourne, the visit was free and the attention plentiful. They said it will take 4-6 weeks to heal. "Little soldiers" are working to heal his leg.

As we sat there, I remembered Town Hall was not far away and that it has a free museum of the City of Brisbane, including free tours of the Clock Tower. We had just enough time to do both before meeting up with Andrew and his wife, Jo, to see a comedy show.

The comedy show was very funny. Australian comedian Celia P... She is a 41-year old mum to an 18-month old. Her hourlong skit was hilarious! We spent much of the weekend watching her in Don's new favorite TV show "Thank God You Are Here." We hope to be able to access it from the States.

Andrew scheduled to borrow a boat from his boat club on Saturday. It poured! At first it was a light drizzle with a forecast calling for it end soon. That morphed into pouring all day long! We went to Bunnings for a snag (a highlight from last year), and watched Australian comedy in their spacious living room. We were introduced to Bluey, who we learned is based in Brisbane on Brisbane landmarks, including Bunnings, which is called Hammerbarn. Bunnings' logo is a giant hammer, so all the Australians get the joke, and most Americans do not. Bluey came up because during her comedy skit Celia told us about how she was cast for the role of Bluey's mom, but lost it after a day.

It turns out, Andrew requested the boat for Sunday and not Saturday. The best mistake ever! The marina is only a 15-minute drive from their house, so we didn't lose much time. On Sunday we went on the boat to Tag..... , an island across from Manley Beach. You can take an hourlong ferry ride to the island, but going in the Whittley felt like living the life of the rich and famous. We bounced along mild waves and were grateful we did not go the day before. Andrew took me snorkeling among the submerged wreck. I kicked myself for leaving the waterproof camera I bought last year to go to the Great Barrier Reef back in New Jersey. It does not take up much space and will be added to my travel back for the future.

Despite best sunscreen efforts, I got burned on my shoulders and back. They are tender today. I've heard 2/3 of Australians develop skin cancer at some point. Skin scans are part of their regular annual health care regiment. I know I need to go soon. They say Americans are warned about big bugs, snakes, and dingoes but not the real things that are more likely to kills you, including skin cancer.

Woke at 5:30 am to leave with Andrew at 6:30 to get to the airport in time for the 9:05 am flight. The bag drop line was at least 30 minutes long, so I am grateful we were here two hours in advance. Other times we have arrived two hours early we've had at least 90 minutes of wait time. This time we had about an hour, but since the lines were so long, we have not been stressed.

Two days in Sydney, then we board three flights to come back (SYD-LAX, LAX-ATL, ATL-PHL). Since the election news, and its ramifications (cabinet picks being pushed through without background checks we all know they would fail, Neo Nazis in Columbus, OH, Muslims voting for T suddenly realizing he will turn on them like he did in his first term with Muslim bands, and other groups realizing what they will lose), I don't feel as if I am returning "home." We have big decisions to make, and are fortunately we are in a position to do so.

I hate that I have to depend on Republicans turning on T in order for us to not lose the ACA, same sex marriage, abortion rights (even medically needed ones), education, and so much more. It will be an awful two years until we can vote in more Democratic leaders into congress and the senate. We have no checks and balances starting on January 20.

Just as each introduction in Australia starts with the reminder we are on native lands, I will include in my posts how upset I am about potentially losing rights we have enjoyed thanks to Democratic leadership. 

Lost track of Legs: Melbourne

I know I'm skipping ahead. I'll try to fill in gaps later.

The last travel post had us in Canberra. When we told people we were going to Canberra, even Australians asked why? The real answer was I wanted to see the capital. The bonus answer was we visited the War Memorial, which TripAdvisor ranks as one of the top ten places to see. Will have to look for a link to confirm, or see if there is a caveat such as "war memorials," or "in the Southern hemisphere," but for now I'll leave that here. It was amazing. It is worth seeing.

We caught an early morning flight to Melbourne so we could see a few highlights of Melbourne during our 10 hour layover, have some good food, worship, see a friend for lunch. Most of that happened. The friend cancelled on us, but we chatted the next day via WhatsApp. 

What didn't happen was the rest of the trip to Bali. Long answer short, our flight was cancelled due to volcanic ash and we decided to skip taking the flight the next day because we saw it could happen again, and even if we made it to Bali, the return flight might be cancelled. As they were not adding a flight, there was a possibility we would be trapped in Bali, which I doubted was as romantic and charming as that sentence could be. After trying to figure out where to go next, realized Melbourne was our best option.

We spent a night in a soulless airport hotel. We met a Lebanese bloke in the hot tub who suggested Don go to the emergency room the next day. That added to the decision to keep off planes for a few days.

Melbourne is a lovely city. It is probably one of my favorite in the world. But, it was not Bali. We spent two of our four days on excursions out of the city, one day at Urgent Care, and a day in the rain wandering about. The excursions where what I needed. A driver taking us places. Seeing new things. And escaping a city when my head was on a Balinese beach.

Excursion 1: Great Ocean Road

Excursion 2: Penisula Spa (hot springs), followed by an hour in a cat café

Now we are at the airport heading to Brisbane to see friends. They have promised to make us feel like honorary Aussies for the weekend. We'll finish with two days in Sydney before catching our flight to the United States. 

The world changed since we left New Jersey. I don't feel as if we are returning home. T knows the rules of government this time. He is filling his cabinet with Yes People who have zero experience. The felon is not subjecting his closest cronies to pesky background checks. It will be awful, unless Republicans stand up to him. It is a sad state in our country that we are dependent upon Republicans becoming our reality check when currently we have no moderate Republicans in office. 

It will be bad.

Anticipate most of my posts will be political until the world rights itself again.

Thing happen in threes, or sixes?

I know there are only five of you who regularly read my posts, and possibly a couple of new people who I handed a business card to on this trip. For the new people, this is not a typical post. For my loyal followers, just keep praying for us.

They say things happen in threes, we are up to at least six.

1) Last week Don slammed into a bench in Uluru. He skipped the hike the next day to rest and visit the doctor on site. 

2) T was reelected. Can't even say his name, think his name, or accept this news. I know it will be horrible. It is already shaping up to be horrible. 

3) Our Virgin Australian flight to Bali was cancelled due to volcanic ash, but the Qantas and JetStar went off as planned. 

4) The hotel I booked at the last minute shares a window with a café in a courtyard. We were allowed to check in early on Monday (after another visit to Urgent Care) only to listen to two mates having coffee and the cafe's music.

5) The first friend we were supposed to meet up with cancelled on us, but did call for a much needed chat.

6) The second friend can't have us over early because of their plans.

Feeling like refugees with wallets. 

Meanwhile the swollen thigh that was not discolored is a swollen leg and foot that is purple. 

I don't want to go back to the states. I don't want to stay here. I just want to burrow under blankets and reemerge when the world is sane again.

Oh and the Aussie attitude of "No Worries" has lost it's charm.

PS: 

7) Pastor is off on Wednesday when I went to see her in a fit of overwhelmingness

8) The cat café is closed on Wednesdays

Fourth Leg: Canberra

Boarding starts in a few minutes. With Don's leg, we have been upgraded to early boarding. In my heart, I am a last minute boarder since I don't like to be in the plane any longer than necessary. In my head, I'm pleased with their compassion.

We took the train from Sydney to Canberra. Four hour train ride from the center of Sydney to the outskirts of Canberra. The ride was lovely. Not having to go to the airport and security and the hassles made up for the length of ride. Loved the extra leg room, the café, ...

The wheels on the trip fully fell off after Canberra. 

Third Leg: Overnight in Sydney

When booking our Qantas deal to Uluru I could not figure out how to book an open leg flight, so the return was to Sydney. 

I booked us a night in a different hotel, one I thought was closer to the train station, but turned out to be further away. At least it was only 50 meters from a tram stop so in the end, it was less walking.

This leg was a planned errand night. We went to the mall to buy some small composition books from the Kmart (only 20 Australian cents apiece) that we discovered while in Australia last year. Don loves the size of the books, and you can't beat the price. We haven't found an equivalent in the US (but we really haven't tried). We also stocked up on ibuprofen since he ran out of the meds he was prescribed in Uluru.

As luck would have it, the mall also had another LEGO store, one I visited last year.

For me the highlight was seeing the Jacaranda trees with the Sydney Opera House in the background. The famous shot travel magazines share. It was stunning.

We took a lot of mass transit. Things that a week ago would have been a walk, were a tram ride instead.

A stop in the train station to confirm our seats was met with a "no worries." We are trying to adopt the "no worries" feel that it will all work out.

Our hotel was billed as a hostel. It was cheap and in the center of town (the CBD), but tiny--barely bigger than the bed. We were grateful it had an elevator.

Not much to say since the leg was barely 12 hours long.     

Second Leg: Uluru

Sitting at the Ayers Rock Airport in shock over the elections. It really put a cloud over my life.

We are chatting with a lovely couple from Ohio so this post will be brief.

On our first night in Uluru we went to a sunset BBQ dinner. The event itself was wonderful, but then the clouds rolled in and the rain and lightning started. Our dinner was supposed to include a star gazing talk, but there were no stars to see. 

As we were heading to the bus, Don ran his thigh into a bench. Overnight his thigh swelled up. The next day while I hiked all around Uluru (10.6 miles), he visited the medical facility that was next to our hotel. For $103 AUD he met with a nurse, was given advice, medicine, an ice pack, and crutches. The next day he returned and met with the doctor. That visit was $185. Less than what we would pay at home with insurance.

I took the Hop On Hop Off bus to Mala Walk in time for the ranger talk. It was wonderful. Timing was off for taking the next bus, so I decided to walk around the entire rock. I only saw a handful of people. By this point it was over 100 degrees and the sun was scorching. Very little shade. There were a few water spots, mostly coinciding with First Aid spots.

After melting on the walk, I met two women out smoking. They gave me a ride to the Cultural Center. As I got in Jamie and Marianne's ride, she said she was taking a "toke" and wasn't sure what I was asking. Yup, let's just stick with the 2.3 km drive over the longer one to the hotel. While I waited for the Hop On Hop Off bus to arrive, I had kangaroo stew.

The next day we took a Segway tour around all of Uluru. Yes, Don with his swollen thigh rode the Segway for two hours. After the tour we visited the doctor at the medical center. She cleared him to fly.

That night we went on a sunset tour at Kata Tjuta, which included "an easy 30-minute" hike to the center of the valley.

There is a lot more to say, but we are about to board.

Updates will be limited as we process the election results.

First Leg Finished: Sydney

The American in me got to the airport two hours early, too early for our gate to be announced. Also early enough to take advantage of the airport's WiFi to post an update. Photos and details to be shared in posts I will write after we come home. Look for them starting around Thanksgiving.

While passing through Hyde Park (yes, Sydney has a Hyde Park, too), we saw a spot where you could stand on a soap box and tell the audience gathered what you think. All opinions are allowed. If I had paused I might have said the following:

One of the reasons we chose to go to Australia at this time was to avoid the election anxiety. Those of you reading this who are Americans who have not yet voted, please do so. The number one question we have been asked by almost everyone we talk to is: Did you vote yet? When we say, yes, they are visibly relieved. American elections impact the rest of the world. 

Off my soapbox now.

Last September I flew to Sydney solo to end my trip Down Under. I truly felt I would never again have the opportunity to return, after all it had been a wish of mine to visit for over thirty years. The day after I returned, Don was laid off. This trip is finishing up what we planned to do in 2023 when his office said he could not take off more time. 

The irony is not lost on us.

My first pleasant surprise came when I noticed the purple jacaranda trees in bloom. I first fell in love with those trees when I saw them at California Adventure in the back corner as we waited to see Aladdin at the Hyperion Theater. I didn't even know their name, but on that May trip, I found them stunning. They were never in bloom during our return trips. Last year I learned its name while standing in front of the 1903 painting Under the Jacaranda Tree. It is nicknamed the "purple panic" because it blooms during exam time. I suspect last year it bloomed early since we saw it in mid-September and exams do not take place until late October. This year they are right on time.

Our fourteen hour flight from LAX to Sydney was eased by the plane not being full, and the flight attendant moving the person sitting next to us to the back row where she could have all three seats to herself, and we could have two seats to ourselves. What a difference that makes! I still only slept in bits, but I was more relaxed.

Our hotel was a quick seven-minute walk from the train station, and most of that was spent exiting Central Station! The front desk held our bags for us, and even moved them up to our room when the room was finally ready four hours later. It felt like we landed in the lap of luxury. I guess I caught a good sale because when I tried to change our next Sydney hotel to that one, the price had more than doubled. 

We spent day one walking, and walking, and walking. As I had already been to Sydney, I played tour guide. I took Don to the place I knew he most wanted to see: the one-year-old World's Largest LEGO Store (beats the 5th Avenue NYC store by 3 square meters/9 square feet). They have the world's largest stamp they use in their passport books. I'm actually surprised we did not return.

In a fit of optimism, we asked if the Sydney Opera House had tickets for the last performance of Sunset Boulevard starring Sarah Brightman. They didn't. I then asked, any chance you have standing room tickets? They did! So after flying for 27 hours, and landing at 7 am, we had tickets to see a Broadway-quality musical at 7:30 PM where we would be standing for two-and-a-half hours. 

We continued our walk through The Rocks and had a hearty meal. Not sure if our stomachs thought it was breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Chose a breakfast salad that seemed to cover all the bases.

We then walked across the Sydney Harbor Bridge to Luna Park where I got an email saying our room was ready two hours early. Reminded me of when Ashley would cry in her stroller during a walk in the park at the furthest point from home. It was a long walk to our room, where we promptly ignored everyone's travel advice and took a nap. Feeling refreshed we had a burger for dinner on the way to the show.   

As we waited for the performance we watched a tiny tugboat pulling an enormous cruise ship out of the Harbor. Yes, it is cruise ship season in Australia. Each day we saw a different cruise ship. Don later said he enjoyed that as much as the show. Sunset Boulevard was wonderful. Standing helped us to stay awake. The sets and costumes were incredible! Seeing the original Christine Daae perform as an aging film singer not ready to give up her career was sublime. 

As they say in Into the Woods, one midnight gone.

Day two was a lot more walking. We started with a tour of Susannah Place in The Rocks. I'll write more about this later. This was the first reservation I made after booking our airfare. Last year I really wanted to visit the museum, but could not score one of the few tour tickets (which are free, along with many other museums in Australia). It was worth the wait, and will be blogged about later.

After the 10 am tour we walked through The Rocks Market -- a mostly craft market that takes place every weekend. Since this weekend coincided with Halloween, the market was smaller than usual. I wanted to see the person who sold me the charms we later turned into dragon earrings to thank her, and to look for new charms. I was getting discouraged about finding her when I noticed she was in a different spot, in the last booth we were passing. I showed her the earrings, and thanked her. I then looked for new charms for new earrings. I settled on typewriters. I was hoping for cameras, but she didn't have any that day. A future trip? I'll send her a picture of the earrings after Don makes them.

I still needed to pick up a ticket from the Opera House for our tour the next day. Oh, the irony since I was there the day before, and a little bit frustrating since they didn't need the ticket and just checked us off a list.

We took a bus to Bondi Beach for the famous Bondi to Cogee walk. When I did it last year I wished Don had been along because I knew he would enjoy it. The day was cool, which helped since we were doing the walk on a Saturday in spring. The most crowded part was when an sculpture art show was happened. Large pieces were along the trail. Models were inside a tent. You could purchase the art. I'm not sure if the prices were form the models or the large pieces, in either case, they would not have fit in our carry-on bags.

The rest of the walk was quiet. Hardly anyone was on the beach. We saw a lot of runners doing the trail. The other highlight (besides the art show that runs through today) was supporting a local fundraiser by buying a "snag" -- a sausage sandwich. Things we do not eat at home, taste better abroad.

We took a long bus ride back to Central Station. Ate dinner at a Thai restaurant near our hotel. Called it an early night.

Two midnights gone.

The third day was an early one. We woke at 5:30 for a 7 am backstage tour of the Opera House. That was amazing! Will write extensively about it later. The tour ended with brekkie in the Green Room. Definitely thought of all of our theater family and friends on this tour. We were allowed to take a lot of pictures, except in the places where we were not allowed to take any pictures either for safety or for copyright reasons.

Breakfast was incredibly filling, so much so we didn't eat again until dinner. On the way back from the tour we saw St. Stephens Uniting Church was having a worship service so we went. It was a nice service. The Uniting Church formed in the 1970s when the Presbyterians, Methodists, and someone else united to create a new church. There are still Presbyterians, but they are a lot more conservative than we are comfortable with these days (along the lines of women are not allowed to be ordained). 

We then walked to our hotel to change. It had been a brisk 60 degrees at the start of the day, but the forecast was calling for 90. Overall we made out well because it was overcast.

With the warm forecast, I planned for a museum day so we could cool off and learn something. The first stop was St. James' Anglican Church. They were the first church built in Sydney about 200 years ago. I saw the list of rectors (I should have taken a picture of it), it only had about two dozen names on it, including one who served for 40 years, and three bishops. Jeff, the sexton on duty, gave us a tour. As he was finishing up showing us their impressive organ, the organist came in for an impromptu rehearsal. Seemed he was showing the organ off for us. 

St. James is across the street from the best museum I have ever visited, or at least the best in terms of presentation: Hyde Park Barracks. That led us to the Art Museum and the Justice and Police Museum, both of which are also very nice. 

I wanted to show Don the building where I stayed last time in the Rushcutters Bay section of Sydney. This involved walked through the Botanical Garden (where we walked around the wishing tree three times forward and three times and three times backward wishing for a Harris presidency. Then across the street to the art museum, and around the back, down stairs, across a bridge, past Woolloomoollo (where another public art show was on display), past the Café on Wheels (that no longer seems to be on wheels), and up 113 stairs. Past the French restaurant that is no longer there. This is where I got lost. To be fair, I often got lost at this point and went several different ways. Using the information on one of the pictures I took on my phone, and Google maps, I was finally able to find the place. 

By this point we were starving. I used the mighty Google again to find the pizza place I enjoyed last year. I don't like American pizza, but I love wood fired oven pizzas. Don and I had a relaxing evening dining outside with a charming French waiter who has lived in Australia for three years, and is planning to return to France in April. 

The options were a 30-minute mass transit trip (with changes) or a 38-minute walk. It was a nice night, so we chose the walk. I showed Don the place where I could have gotten run over last year because I looked in the wrong direction. It wasn't nearly as close as the Aussie next to me thought it was.

I set the alarm for 6 am so we could get to the airport two hours early and wait. The flight is still 45 minutes away.

Our next stop is Uluru, also called Ayers Rock, also called Yulara. It is the big red mound in the middle of the Outback. A three-and-a-half hour flight from Sydney. We'll return to Sydney in a few days for an overnight before taking a train to Canberra. That will be "errand night" when we do some laundry and shopping. We checked out that hotel. Our clue that it is not as nice is that check in is through the bar next door. Any other district and we would be concerned, but this is in a decent part off town just off George Street by the Queen Victoria.

The hope is to disconnect and unwind as election results come in. Wonder where we will learn who won? May we have a country to return home to in two-and-a-half weeks.